I’m trying to initialize my shapeoko 5 pro machine. I’ve read all the error codes and suggestions on other closed posts in this forum.
I get the GRBL Alarm 9 code with a loud noise after trying to initialize.
Here is what i’ve done so far:
made sure the axis’ are clear of debris
tested the switches, the radio buttons on the carbide motion all light up as i touch each switch
there isn’t anything near the limit switches
the axis’ and gantry move freely when power is off
using my multimeter, i tested continuity on all wires leading to switches to the connectors to the controller, there are no kinks, or broken wires.
The only thing i can think of is the controller is bad or the switches. Email was sent to support answering all their initial questions, etc, but still haven’t heard back from them.
Going through the setup process myself. In the Carbide Motion app, go to setting and enable MDI. Connect to the machine and go to the MDI tab on the top. Send the command G28.3 this will bypass initialization and allow you to see the Jog command the will let you move the machine around.
I am currently having problems with the sensors showing on when they should not be. You can check that in the Debug tab under Settings. None should be lit up unless that axis is at its home location which is the far back right with the spindle all the way up. Check that the sensors are pushed forward enough so that the axis isn’t getting too far back and crashing. In the Debug screen, holding a allen wrench near the sensor should make the red light on the sensor come on and the Debug window will show a blue radio button by the one you are testing.
They are sending me wiring harnesses and a hdz unit. The Z motor and Z unit was my issue. It was really tight and hard to move when power was off. I was on a call with Carbide for 30 minutes. We think there is a short somewhere as well.
Yes, I’m up and running. Not really doing anything special yet but cutting out precision cuts and templates for a drawer system I’m building for my blackstone grill for camping but it’s fun learning process than using a tablesaw/tracksaw
My new controller will be here tomorrow. Hopefully, this will fix it…
Interestingly, if I start the machine and connect before the controller gets warm, I can get it to initialize. I live in central Florida, so if it is above 80 degrees I will get the error of it being unable to move off the Z home. If I put a portable fan blowing cool air and it has been completely disconnected for about thirty minutes, I can get it to initialize. From then on, I can run jobs and do everything. As soon as the controller is warm, the Z home light will come on in the Debug screen and stay on. As long as I do not Initialize it again, it will let me continue to run jobs and set new zeroes.
So I will find out tomorrow when I plug in the new box, initialize and then leave it for about a half hour. Hopefully, the light stays off. I have basses to build!!!
I’m in AZ, so maybe it’s a humidity thing. I had it running most the day with no issues after installing replacement parts. I think it hit 102 degrees.
Humidity was lower today and it worked. I ran two small jobs and checked the Debug screen and the Z Home radio button was on. Machine is amazing when I can get it running.
I am now getting that grbl alarm 10 error. I didn’t do anything and it just started showing up. I moved gantry to the front and tried to reinitialize but it always alarms now. Machine seems to be in square.
I had the same issues with my new machine. The fix for me was a new controller box and a new stepper motor for the “Y” axis. When your machine initializes does it sound smooth or like something is binding? I could physically see that one side was not moving in sync with the other. Hope this helps.
It moves now and was working. Originally Z was bound tight and caused a noise when trying to initialize. They sent me a new wiring harness for Z (along top of gantry) and the main one along with a new Z unit. This new setup was working for a few weeks, but now Y2 is having an issue. If I look at the Y2 to see how close it is to the limit switch, I notice there is a gap now. The screws around Y2 all seem tight. Even if I move then gantry (with power off) to the front and try to reinitalize, the machine starts to head to back right but XYZ hit this switches but alarm 10 triggers and Y2 is never hit with that inch gap.
