Howdy, I have a job where I’m going to cut a bunch of parts out of poplar… and I usually use the tool presets in Carbide and only have ever cut hardwoods. Poplar is technically a hardwood, but I am wondering if it’s soft enough I can use the other tool profiles as they’re quicker. Stupid or?
You are correct that poplar is considered a hardwood. But it is an in between hard and soft wood. So try the softwood but you might be better to use the hardwood. Poplar machines well and is perfect for secondary parts of assemblies or if you are going to paint it. It takes paint very well.
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When running a job, I listen to my cut. Yes, I chose the preset many times. The sound and the chip size are what I use to determine if I can increase the percentage. There have been times that I increased the rate to 200 percent. Then I make a note and up my feed the next time I cut that wood.
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I have several projects to use with poplar, but haven’t used it before. Most of my work is home decor and signage and I had run a test with poplar originally and tried to put paint in letter and it bled, but these projects won’t be painted and/or are painted with 100% coverage. I just wanted to save a little time, but I am a very by the book kind of guy when it comes to machinery (healthy fear I suppose!)
Makes sense! I swear everytime I cut I second guess myself and I’m like wait, is that louder than normal?! Is my machine broken!? Is my end mill worn. I’m my own worst enemy when it comes to that stuff. I want to save time, but as I mentioned to gdon_2003, I am very by the book as far as the machine goes.
When I started, cheap bits were my tool of choice. I have a drawer full of broken bits. But they taught me about limitations.
You will get it. Questions, just ask.
Assuming that you are speaking of lettering for a sign or something (perhaps vcarved), always seal your lettering with shellac (or equivalent) before you add paint. That will seal (mostly) all those tiny channels between the wood fibers that suck up the paint and spread it around.
Also, poplar has always been a stringy wood when I cut it in a roughing toolpath. When I’m surfacing or reducing thickness, it can clog up the dust boot port. 
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Most carbide bits even cheap ones last a long long time. Obviously the better the carbide material the longer it lasts. It would be pretty hard to wear out a carbide bit. It is possible is all you cut is MDF because of the sawdust and the glue mainly. I primarily use down cut bits unless it is a deep cut. For a deep cut I use upcut bits because down cut bits back the sawdust down. The extra sawdust and chips are recut and recut and is not a good think.
So lighten up on yourself and enjoy what you are doing. If it is not fun then why are you doing it. Even if you are selling your wares keep it fun and light. That is not to say you should not learn what you are doing but give yourself a break and concentrate on the enjoyment of creating and not the stress of making. As humans we make mistakes and that is ok. Learn from the mistakes and move forward.
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