HDZ assembly challenge on SO3 XXL

Hi all, I haven’t reached a resolution yet with support@carbide3d, so I thought I’d post this issue here and see if any of you have thoughts.

I’m working through the assembly of my HDZ for my SO3 XXL. I’m on page 18/62, step 1a of the manual – attach the Z motor and couple the motor shaft to the ball screw shaft.

My problem is that it seems like the motor shaft is too long. It bottoms out in the shaft coupler, and I’m left with this 5mm gap between the motor and the mount.

If I remove the shaft coupler from the equation, you can see that there’s about a 3 mm gap between the motor shaft and the ball screw shaft when the motor is sitting flush with the mount.

This isn’t going to fit. The red plastic in the middle of the shaft coupler is ~8 mm thick (8 mm plastic - 3 mm room between shafts = 5 mm gap between motor and mount).

Am I don’t something wrong? I’m using all stock parts purchased directly from Carbide 3D.

I thought my motor shaft might be too long (wrong motor?), so I dug up this post where @WillAdams points to a BOM for the machine and a product page with datasheet for the motor. The shaft length on the datasheet (21 - 1.6 = 19.4 mm) matches what I measure. That checks out.

This photo below shows the X motor, but I’m certain I haven’t switched the X and Z motors; it’s the Z motor I’m trying to attach (and that’s in the photos above). All four motors have the same shaft length, anyway. The only difference between the STEP200S and STEP200L seems to be the cable length, 275 mm (S) vs 400 mm (L).

What else could be going wrong here? I’d appreciate your thoughts, because I’m stumped.

If you can easily get at it, how long is your HDZ’s Z motor shaft?
Does the part numbers on your Z motor match mine?
Do you (or did you when you set it up) see a similar 3mm gap between motor shaft and ball screw shaft, or was it bigger?
Does your shaft coupler look/measure the same as mine?

The only other thought I had is that the ball screw isn’t installed/seated correctly. If you look at Figure 14 in on page 18/62 of the manual, reproduced here for convenience…


… you see that the bottom of the shaft coupler is just about flush with the top of that hex feature.

On mine, there’s a gap. Not the full 5 mm, but about 2.5-3.0 mm.

The remaining 2.0 mm might be down here at the bottom of the HDZ, if the router race of the bearing is meant to be flush with the bottom (doubt it, though, unless it’s a press-fit).

Also, when I rotate the ball screw by hand, it feels inconsistent around a single revolution. There’s a definite easy side of the rotation and a tougher side where it takes more effort to rotate. Another red flag with the ball screw. The ball screw stages I’ve worked with in the past (granted, they were Parker, so completely different price range) were butter smooth and consistent around their full revolution. How does yours feel when you rotate it by hand?

Alright, this has gotten long enough for now. Please let me know if you spot any red flags in the photos or descriptions I’ve provided, or if you want to see additional photos/measurements of other parts to check a hypothesis.

Thank you for the help!

I took another look at this and checked the design files. It looks pretty close to spec from what I can make out.

It looks like the coupling isn’t pushed onto the shaft properly. The only thing stopping this would be the red insert.

Do you have a better photo of it without either side of the coupling?

I took the liberty of checking a sectional model. It should be your motor shaft slips into the coupling hole deeper.

Hi @Luke, thanks for the cross-sectional drawing. It’s helpful to see that the intention is that the motor shaft slides down inside the coupler. That’s what I expected initially, too, but I couldn’t get it to press in, and I applied more force than I’m normally comfortable with. The instructions didn’t suggest I should need an arbor press, mallet, or any notable force, so I didn’t want to go at with the heavy tools.

Here are some more photos of the coupler:


What’s harder to capture in photos is that the motor shaft doesn’t have any wiggle room when it slides into the aluminum coupler (the set screw is loose). You can see the red plastic shoulder has a significantly smaller diameter than the aluminum. If I really pressed on it, the plastic shoulder would mushroom/squish rather than deforming outward to accommodate the motor shaft. It’s not particularly soft plastic, though; my fingernail can’t dent it.

Either the plastic or motor shaft needs some wedge shape if the plastic is supposed to deform. The red plastic does have a slight taper inside the recess, but the diameter at the top is about 5 mm, estimated with the back end of a set of drill bits. The motor shaft (ignoring the flat) is 6.35 mm with only the smallest chamber to break the sharp edge. 0.7mm is too much shoulder for a press fit.

The other issue is that even if the motor shaft did wedge in there, it wouldn’t give me the full 5 mm I need to make up. I might get 2-2.5 mm. And there’s no way the ball screw shaft is going to recess into the plastic on the other side (and your drawing doesn’t suggest it should).

Could some of these parts/drawings have changed in different versions of the HDZ? Could I have a mismatched set?

Closing the loop for archival purposes – The red plastic clutch within the shaft coupler is wrong.
Thanks to @Luke and Brandon Lee (via support@carbide3d) for figuring this out!

Correct coupler with larger ID and the red plastic drilled through (Brandon’s photo):

Incorrect coupler with smaller ID and red plastic not drilled through (my photo):

Support is getting me sorted out quickly with the right part. Thanks, guys!

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Thanks for these, it looks like a different variant of the coupler has snuck into production. Support will get this taken care of for you.

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