Help - 3D carving



Hello,
I just completed my first 3D carve using Carbide Create Pro ver. 8.36. I have a Shapeoko 5 Pro with a spindle. I’ve attached pix to show the issue I’m having.
The carve was completed using a #251 down cut 1/4-inch endmill for roughing, and a #101 ball nose endmill for finishing. Standard speeds and feeds. The wood is Teak from a blue big box store.

Can I run a second Finish pass with a smaller bit to get more detail and to get rid of the fuzz? I thought I heard someone state that if you go with the grain, it reduces the fuzz, True or Not?

Thanks for all your advice.

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Yes, but you will want to set the “Stock to Leave” for the finishing pass to at least equal the desired chipload for the smaller tool.

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Thanks Will,
I’m new to this, can you explain further?

There is an option for 3D Finishing toolpaths “Stock to Leave”, which is the same as for 3D Roughing toolpaths — the intent is to leave stock uncut, so that a successive toolpath can be run and that follow-on toolpath will have material to remove and will cut, not rub.

Probably you could just set up the 3D Finishing toolpath w/ the smaller tool and run only it — the design looks to be complex enough that there will be sufficient material to remove that rubbing won’t be too bad.

For more on these concepts see:

Thank you, I wasn’t exactly sure what that setting actually did. I will give it a try.

Will, one more question if you don’t mind.
If you look at the top picture, The text didn’t come out - the E in partially missing at the end on GIVE.
I was thinking I would sand the area smooth and attempt to V-carve the text.
Can I put a V-carve over this 3D?
Any advice as to how I would go about this, as far as getting the text in the correct location?

Where did you get the .stl file for your carve?

It should work to just model it as a V carving, then cut only the region defined by the outlines (if the part is still clamped in place).

If not, just use a sharp chisel and cut by hand?

I just Googled STL files.

@Paul13 I use a lot of that teak and know the frustration, however doing another pass is very time consuming so what I use are these.
Abrasive Wheel, Buffing Polishing Wheels, Metal Polishing Compound Amazon.com: 200pcs Abrasive Wheel, 1" Buffing Polishing Wheels, Metal Polishing Compound for Rotary Tools-1/8(3mm) Shank, 120 Grit, 180 Grit, 320 Grit, 400 Grit, 600 Grit : Industrial & Scientific

They knock off all the fuzzies and I just put in my drill and makes easy work. Just an idea for you.

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Thank you very much Tony. Something to keep in mind.

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Many woods will give you some fuzz, to varying degrees related to technique, no matter what. I see it in teak. My hypothesis is that, being waxy, the uncut portions hold on to fibers in the chips more than in most other woods. Some other woods leave fuzz because they’re “stringy” such as red oak. In those woods it’s more likely higher concentrations, or more cross-linking, in the lignin component of the cell walls.

Try cutting a sample area in hard maple for comparison. BTW, pretty good job for the first time.