Help Tramming Shapeoko Pro XXL

To tram the Y, I shimmed the Z plate with paper, until I got it where it needed to be,. In my case, I had to shim the top out. Yours looks like the bottom needs to be shimmed out.


I was wrong about the carriage. If that picture is correct you can shim it.


Looks like it was about 0.044" off over 3" using your tramming tool.
I’m not into blind trust much, so I would spin the tramming tool around 180° and check it again.

So measure the height of your X axis carriage (magenta in pic).

Shim = 0.044 x height / 3

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Ok so I tried shimming it tonight.

When I have the Y axis so the dials are facing to the right i get this reading

When I spin them 180 degress to face to the left I get this reading…

Why is there such a big discrepancy? What am I doing wrong ?

I had a thought… is it possible my spindle is bent ?

It could be that either the shaft on the dial indicator assembly is bent, or the collet isn’t true, or the trim router is no turning true — check the runout of the collet and trim router using a dial indicator?

How do I check runout ? What do I need part wise to do this ?

I can not picture in my head how a bent spindle, shaft, or runout will stop you from tramming your spindle.Wore out bearings? yes. Warped spindle housing, yep.
I would reface off your spoilboard first, and NOT sand it smooth. then put your sheet of glass on the spoilboard. I would also put a test indicator in the spindle, and run it over the glass to verify that is is level with the gantry. Then I would begin tramming the spindle.

Just my line of thinking,

I would also put a test indicator in the spindle

What do you mean by this ? Do you mean the tram gauge?

I only currently have the Edge Pro Tramming gauge I do not own any other gauges and I am very new to all of this so I don’t really have any experience tramming or any other setup/ adjustment of a CNC.

Whats happening with the tramming makes little sense to me. When I rotate the tram to face to the right on the Y axis it reads one thing and then when I rotate it 180 degrees so it is facing to the left I get a completely different reading. Are the indicators not on the same exact spot ?

I guess I will try resurfacing the spoilboard again and not sand it.

It looks like the Edge Pro gage is pretty close, it just needs to be dialed in to start.

Not sure what you meant by calibrating it with a magnet.
But if you put something solid under one of the probes, and move your machine down until it reads 0.000
Set your Z zero on the machine, or note the Z value.
Raise your Z and spin the gage around 180° (If you raise Z 0.100 it’s one click to move it back)
Now lower the Z to the same position it was, And assuming the needle has moved, turn the dial face so it also reads 0.000.
If the second needle doesn’t move, move down until it reads 0.000, then repeat the process for the other probe.
Either way, they should both read 0.000 when rotated checking the same object.

Now when you bring them both down to your glass so one of them reads 0.000, when you spin it they should switch.

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Not sure what you meant by calibrating it with a magnet.
The Edge Pro comes with a little magnet that you are supposed to use to calibrate it with.

I put it in Y axis orientation with only one side of the gauge touching the magnet which is supposed to be square to the surface and the other side is hanging off. I then bring it down and in a video it said to get it to 10 then set for zero. Lift up rotate and set for zero again, except that when I set for the same distance the opposite side the needle does not move. In the second pic above the gauge needle wont even move on the right side of the gauge yet when it was flipped 180 degrees it was almost the same measurement for both gauges. I hope I made that clear.

May I suggest simplifying your problem by eliminating a calibration for now?

If you use just one of the dials on the tramming gauge then it doesn’t matter if the gauge is set up properly, it will need setting up to have both dials zero correctly.

Just pick one (probably the left one as it moves first) and rotate in the spindle watching that gauge and ignoring the other. I tram my machine with a single sided arm with a single dial gauge in.

Once you get it all set up I’m sure the whiteside is a bit quicker and easier to read but for now, I’d simplify the problem by eliminating a variable.



And now I have a new problem. I finally got it trammed and now the X axis is binding and not running smooth WTF!

2.64mm thick cardboard shim. Once I removed the shims the binding stopped. I have no idea now how to tram my machine now. It is apparently out of tolerance by quite a bit and putting the shims in is causing the Z plate to bow causing the linear rail to bind so I can’t shim it to where I need to, to properly tram it.

I honestly do not know what to do anymore with this machine it has been just one problem after another.

Please write in to and let us work through this w/ you.

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Will I wrote to support. So far the tramming issue is not being addressed. I provided details of the tramming issue and I am being asked what I have cut so far on the machine, if I did the Hello World… I think tramming the machine takes precedence since nothing is going to cut properly if it is not trammed.

I had asked for clarification of your email, and received no information on how to check these things:

  • the bed is level, see: Wasteboard Plans with threads - #19 by ApolloCrowe
  • the extrusions are level to the bed
  • the Y-axis extrusions are parallel to each other
  • the X-axis extrusion is square to the Y-axis
  • the Z-axis is plumb and square
  • the spindle mount is plumb and square — some folks make or purchase a spindle square to check this

I also called support and have heard nothing.

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Please let me know in a PM what e-mail address you used and we’ll check on this at our end.

The machine was trammed using folded alumnium foil to shim between the router mount and Z plate. Between the front and back Z Plate was not the correct place to try to shim it as it put pressure on the linear rail bearings and pulled the back Z plate out of square causing the X axis to bind on the bearings and linear rails. All is good now it passed a pocket cut test with flying colors even with a flycutter bit it is completely smooth with no ridges.

Thank you to everyone for their help and to Fleming from Carbide support


The reason I put my shims between the X & Z plates is that I’m also tramming the Z axis, not just the router/spindle. I not only want the tool to be perpendicular to the table, but it’s motion when it moves up & down. I’m cutting some jobs using nearly the entire Z range of motion. I want Y to be in the same place at the table as it is 4" above the table. If you’re cutting a lot of stuff at the same level then it’s not as important.

2.64mm (0.104") is a lot!!! And that’s just over the height of the X plate. If that’s 4", and you move up 1", you are now 0.026" off. I can’t believe the machine was built that far out of tolerance. I also used several layers of aluminum foil (0.001" thick) to shim mine.

Hopefully, support can help you figure out what went wrong & fix it.

For some reason I’m not seeing my post with the pics of the x rail and the framing square and carpenter square. They both show how off the X gantry is by the gap at the bottom.

I think I will need to put another call into support

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