Hey guys, I’m looking for a little inlay help, hoping maybe someone can suggest a few tweaks on my settings. I’ve uploaded a picture of my results. My shoulders are too narrow and I feel like I am going back and forth a bit trying to get a better fit.
Here are the files I used…
Blake_JennTest.c2d (400 KB)
Blake_JennPlugtest2.c2d (584 KB)
For the inlay, ignore the Jenn portion, that was a different test.
Thank you and let me know if you need more info to help!
Kraig
If you’re using a tool which has a ball-nose tip, that tool geometry is not supported in Carbide Creat.
No ball nose? 1/8" endmill (carbide #102) and a 30 degree vbit.
It’s the IDC 30 degree v-bit, sharp tip, not a ball nose.
I have no idea why it shows up like that. I have the IDC library added and I load it from there. It matches the settings recommended from the site for the exact bit I bought. I think I have selected the right one. It acts as expected in all projects I run with a 30 degree vbit. I am just having trouble finding the right depth settings. I think I might be too shallow on the inlay and need to go deeper with those settings but I keep changing things and not quite getting a really tight fit, everything is slightly off!
I would suggest trying a #302 60 degree tool using the Carbide Create defaults as a starting point.
If the V-bit does not come down to a PERFECT point, then the tool cuts lower than programed. which makes the female pocket larger and male insert smaller. I like using this guy. I have a digital micro scope I use to inspect my bits occasionally, and I’ve had Vs that don’t come to a point.
Kraig: some thoughts:
edge grain inlays are alwas a challenge, I usually use 20deg v-carve bits for end grain, works well, with 6mm (~1/4") depth IMO fully functional for cutting boards.
Now I tried 30 deg on edge cut stock, it is better, but still wood breaks off like your k-leg.
Possibly 60deg might be better for decorative inlays.
I had some luck with applying some shellac on the surface of the edge grain wood, IMO that is much better, less chips break off. Still not really beautiful, but I think it is worth experimenting with different paints, shellac is brittle.
to check for appropriate depths cut the test project on a table saw, and check whether the glue gap was done as planned, I had some issues with that, needed some adjustment before it really became acceptable.
Your image appears asymmetrically cut out though. IMO that can happen when the cutting edge of the bit “pulls” the bit into the wood on the cutting side. Happens when one tries to cut precise cuts with a too long bit. Use the shortest bit possible for those cuts.
There is a reason why inlays are not made often with wood but rather with Epoxy.
GL
I have not inspected the tip of the v-bit so I might do that.
Thank you for the suggestions. I am testing in edge grain but the end results will be cut in side grain, so hopefully will be a little better.
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