How Do You Cut Your Small Tabs

Hey, what are you guys using to cut Small Tabs? I already tried my Oscillating Multitool, but it wont get into the small places with out damage. Tried my dremel, but my hand would pretty much need to be…well…a CNC to stay on course and not cut & damage my nice, previously cut letters. lol

Just curious if someone has something I “havent” tried.

Have you tried a coping saw?

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Hmm…I have not. About to run to my local Ace and see if they have one.
Thank you there dear chap! lol

How big are the tabs? I often use very small tabs set up in Aspire like .1 inch in height and .05 long and the use a small wood chisel and hammer. Does not always work on bigger parts. I now use blue masking tape and Titebond to secure most of my work. Many use tape and super glue, faster, but on large parts cost comes into play.

Welp! I’ll say this much @MrGNY
It worked, but by golly…it is very tedious having to setup and thread that blade for each section of letters you need to cut. I got through it though thankfully right before my local Ace closed too. Sheeesh! lol

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Depending on the part geometry and material and tab thickness I use:

  • a sharp chisel
  • an X-acto knife
  • a razor saw blade in an X-acto knife handle
  • a Japanese flush cut pull saw
  • a gouge (I’d love to put together a full set with radii to match every possible contour)
  • a utility knife (usually the Gerber EAB I keep in my watch pocket, but I really should go for the Stanley in my tool chest)
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Just like Will Adams I use a variety of tools depending on the part. I found that oss tool would nick some projects. A SHARP chisel works well, a Japanese pull saw works and if it is a larger project I use a router table with a pilot bearing to trim off the tab.

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Superglue + tape = No Tabs

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Search for “keyhole saw” or “jab saw”. The Jab saw is made for cutting drywall and the blade may be too wide for some curves. Keyhole saws are smaller and narrower, but harder to find.

Keyhole Saw Hikimawashi Nokogiri 4 inch x 15tpi

Kobalt Keyhole Saw

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I use a veritas flush cut saw, a pair of wiss utility scissors and my bandsaw depending on the job.

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I’m going to look into this method, but to be honest, it sounds like super glue would go pretty quick though?

This is a UK link but should be in US as well, Veritas is a Canadian brand
Varitas Flush Cut Saw

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I have a lot of painters tape in the shop. I recently bought a big bottle of super glue to try the tape and glue method. Read on the forum and be careful not to get so much super glue that it gets off the tape. The things I have read is you dont need to saturate the project but you need enough to keep it from coming loose.

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Where did…or who did you get a big bottle of super glue from? I’ve only ever seen the tiny bottles, so I guess it’s in my head, I would run out. If you got a link that would be great, may look into this method a bit more because…and maybe you can help me grasp this…I’ve been watching everyone make these “Threaded Wasteboards” right…so I go out and get my MDF, ordered the t nuts, but I just cant bring myself to set it all up because…well, it’s like, you’re going through all this stuff (drilling holes, hammering in tnuts) just to mess this board up and then what??? Take all those nuts back out just to put into a New board? Is that how it works?

Nah… you would just run it again how you want. Just because there are a few extra holes does not mean the waste board is ruint.

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I like this stuff.

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thank you, That looks like it should last a bit longer than the little small bottles.

I got a 20g bottle of Locktite Super Glue at Walmart. I have Starbond that I use for turning pens and finishing with CA glue. Starbond is a good quality of glue but it is more expensive than regular super glue. After opening your super glue store it in the refrigerator. I put mine in a plastic bag in case of spillage and to help seal air out. Air and heat are the enemy of stored super glue.

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Do you have access to YouTube? There must be a thousand videos by now on this tape and glue method.

Here’s what I use.

FastCap 2P-10 Super Glue Adhesive 2.25 Ounce Thick and 12 Ounce Activator Combo

Starbond has equivalent, but I just haven’t gone that route, yet.

You don’t need to use much glue, but you do need “slide” the boards as you lay them together so the glue is spread thin. Thin is the real key to a decent bond, but you have about 5 seconds to get your board positioned if you use the activator. :smiley:

It takes practice.

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Look up 2P10 on Amazon. You can buy it in pint size. They also have thicker gel type which is easier. If you buy a can of activator, it’s an instant bond. Glue one side. Spray the other. Agent they meet… BAM! Instant bond!

I love that stuff.

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