Forget scanning or photographing the actual object. You are getting optical distortion.
Put the object on a sheet of paper, then trace the outline of the object with a fine sharp pencil.
Import the drawing into carbide create and use that as a template reference for a cutting path.
Again, how accurate are you trying to be? Moving the camera a greater distance away & ensuring the lens is centered over the object will reduce parallax error and get you close enough.
And you’re going to have to scan or photograph your drawing to digitize it anyways.
I generally choose the path of least resistance. 
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For getting a clean outline, a triangular block of wood (a scrap will do) with a divot at one end to hold a ball-point pen refill:
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As a few others have said, photographing can definitely be done with great success. The setup can take awhile but that time is amortized over the number of objects you plan to capture (I photographed everything I could find in the kitchen 
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Recently I designed a custom wine caddy thing at my wife’s request. She wanted specific glasses and bottles but she also wanted the curves matched in the caddy. The idea being that the pieces would sit more snugly in the caddy and not clink around when carrying.
The curvature was verified with a little 3d print. Everything matches up much better than I expected, well within the limits for a tight fitting foam if I wanted to go that route.
Granted this took an entire night, tracing is not a fast process.
If I ever try out the tool foam I’m definitely going with the bed scanner. It’s so much quicker and easier to “get right” than the photography but both are viable.
For shiny objects which do not scan well, look into easily removed sprays or coatings. I’ve seen some specifically designed to eliminate reflectivity to make 3d scanning more accurate. They’re supposed to be non-marking and very easy to remove. Might be worth a shot if the toolkaiser app doesn’t work for you 
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