How to properly cut tapered walls?

I have these two features I’m having a hard time cutting. For an idea of scale this part is about the size of two packs of gum side by side.

The first feature is a hole/slot with 3 degree tapered walls. First I tried a 3D contour with a 1/16" flat end mill but that just left me stair steps.

So then I thought I’d scallop cut it with this really small tapered ball end mill. This looked great in fusion and simulation. But when I took it off the machine the walls look flat. Now I’m thinking maybe I need to buy a 3 degree tapered cutter if such a tool exists, and cut a contour with it?

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My second trouble was a similar hole with a 45 degree taper. I tried the 3D contour and got large stair steps. So I thought about using one of my 45 degree 1/4" bits and a 2D contour, but there’s a boss right up on the edge of the hole and fusion only wants to cut with the tip of the tool so 1/2 the diameter of the tool would have to crash through the boss to make the cut. Here I’m thinking maybe I should buy a narrow or long reach 45 degree cutter. Maybe draw some fake contours at different levels in the hole to trick the machine into cutting what I want?


I also planned to try the scallop approach here, have not tried it yet. But I don’t want another flat hole. Again it looks cool in manufacturing and simulation, but I’m afraid I don’t know what I’m doing. Here’s what this scallop looks like:

What’s your advice here? I’m open to suggestions, I’m still pretty new to this. Oh and it’s too late to move the boss :). That ship has sailed for me for now.

Oh and this is my bit I’ve been using for the scallop

Thank you!

What CAD/CAM tool are you using?

Since I use Carbide Create, where I can, I match the tool angle to the feature angle where possible.

Screengrab showing your toolpath/tooling settings?

Photo showing the current state of cutting?

What is the purpose of the 3° and 45° walls? That would define the GD&T & finish requirements, which in turn would determine machining strategy.

If the 3° is critical, then a 3° tapered endmill is your best bet. Yes, they make them, but they’re usually not cheap.

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I will get the photos but I’m in fusion360.

The walls are where a water resistant (IP68) connector 's o-ring seal compresses against. Both those dimensions were recommended by the connector mfg.