When you say extension cable do you mean just a plain extension cord or is there some kind of special extender needed? EMI issues?
StarTech.com 6 Ft Power Cord with… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VY53QE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Basic extension cable. Love this one because it was relatively short and the same color black as the cable so it blends in with the sawdust
Oh and before installing the makita router - remove the security tag
Haha…okay thanks got it!
The Makita has an eight (8) foot cord…but I don’t know what “Long Enough” means…I’m a machinist, and engineer…we need numbers to answer a number question…
PS Regardless if it came with an 18" cord, an extension cord is a cheap method of adding a premium router to the awesome PRO machine… unrelated, but fun to say…you can put lipstick on a pig…it’s still a pig
I’ve read that the router supplied by Carbide has an extra long power cord. So I was wondering if the Makita cord was long enough. Checking this is the model y’all recommending:
Makita RT0701C 1-1/4 HP Compact Router
Thanks.
…giggle… I don’t know about YOUR socks, but my socks are soft and flexible…so it is very easy to turn the speed knob as well as turning the router on and off.
I HIGHLY recommend the Bit-Runner…or the DIY version…(which costs about $5 to make)…to turn your router ON/OFF via gcode.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/204760777
FYI - they sell two versions of the same tool
One with just the trim router and the other with the accessories
6.5 Amp 1-1/4 HP Corded Fixed Base Variable Speed Compact Router with Quick-Release
https://www.homedepot.com/p/204247210
6.5 Amp 1-1/4 HP Corded Plunge Base Variable Speed Compact Router Kit With Collet, Base, Straight Guide, (2) Wrenches
https://www.homedepot.com/p/204760777
The thing is, once you install that trim router in your drag chains, you are not going to want to remove it to use it as a normal router (way too much effort), so just go with the $99 one
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This is solid advice for anthing that rotates quickly (well, viscous liquid advice anyway ;- )
I read some interesting things about bearings and lubrication whilst reading up on spindle motor efficiency with @gmack . In a couple of research papers there was some solid discussion of the power loss to the bearings which described the changes in friction losses in the bearings as RPM increased. The losses initially rise with speed and then drop sharply as the grease exhibits ‘rheological behaviour’ under the high-speed movement of the bearing and transition from thick goop to an oily liquid with much lower viscosity and drag on the bearing. Both the flow speeds and temperature seem to be involved in this transition.
This appears to be related to the spindle warm-up programs that many VFD users and lots of the big machine manufacturers such as Haas recommend. In initial cold-start the bearings are cold, clearances are not what they will be when warm but also the lubricant (if grease based) is thick and goopy and sitting wherever it congealed after the last run. As the spindle runs slowly it works the grease around, warming it up and getting ready to run high RPM without the grease creating hydraulic forces which damage the bearing.
On a new bearing this will be particularly important as it will be freshly packed with grease and may still be tight on clearances until it has run in.
That’s the edge of my mech-eng, I’m sure there’s somebody here who knows a lot more about this.
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Long time ago I worked in a machine shop programming milling machines (by hand - we were a few years before AutoCad would export G-code to our Fadal machines - which were all networked via RS232 cables strewn all over the place) and one of the things we would need to do before we’d run a long run of anything is literally warm up the machine. I wrote a program that would just cycle all the axes for 30 minutes so that the bearings and lead screws could warm up and the machine would run true. My boss showed me on some scrap once what happened if you ran the machine cold versus with the grease nice and flowing and it was WAY off (like 30 thou).
Having said this I didn’t heat cycle this router but I did run it at 1 for a while before cranking it up. I wonder how these do with a VFD hooked up so I could get a more accurate spindle speed.
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This is what the brushes looked like when I took them out. The spindle itself was making a rather inglorious squeaking noise and it felt like something dragging even with the brushes out of it. I’d say it’s met a rather early demise.
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Yep, those plastic fragments are likely from the bearing housings. Probably time to send it back for a replacement.
I’m exchanging emails with support currently. I also ordered a Makita that should be here tomorrow so I don’t need to wait any longer to be making chips.
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That’s funny. “A Chinese knock-off of a Makita Router”. And where is Makita made. 
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So are you insinuating that a POS China brand Chery car is as good as a Mercedes S class (built outside of Shanghai), because they are both built in China? I don’t get your pointless point.
Point in fact, China builds some very fine items…my iPhone for example and some really crappy stuff…like a $2 Arduino Uno (knock-off).
I’m in the cohort that is anxiously still waiting for them to come back in stock…according to @Jorge they should be ready
Maybe I just need to make my own as you suggest?
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That doesn’t look like a security tag. Could be wrong but It looks like an EMI filter. My router didn’t have one so i added one. On my old Shapeoko i had problems with disconnects because of EMI interference so i bought some and added them to the power cord. That eliminated the issue.
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I opened mine up, it’s a security tag — left it on though, since it’s convenient to zip tie at would otherwise be a wear point.
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…but there has been conjecture that Apple may turn a blind eye to how rare elements are mined!
I think the point of this entire post was ‘unproductive dead end’ regarding a router
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Which one? Politics or facts? 
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