Hello everyone. Just got my shapeoko pro 2 weeks ago and trying to carve logos. I have a great Svg but not sure what I am doing wrong. I use the 60degree v bit and my toolpath is set for .175 max depth. Any help out there is greatly appreciated.
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Hard to tell how big your design is, but looks relatively small. 0.175 is pretty deep for a 60 degree bit. I do designs that are about 3-4 inches. .02 with a 60 degree bit saves a lot of detail.
another thing is you pre-stained, which is good for the contrast. Did you seal with lacquer or shellac? either will help to “sharpen” your carving by stiffening up the wood fibers.
Post the C2D file for more input…
Best.
Mark
the wiggle in your letters almost implies the machine has some mechanical slop… Will has a checklist of how to work on that…
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Please check the machine mechanically. Per the machine operating checklist: Machine operating checklist , the basic points of adjustment for a machine are:
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Pulley set screws — verify that these are in-place and secure — for further details on checking them on a Shapeoko 3 see: http://docs.carbide3d.com/shapeoko-faq/shapeoko-3-how-to-check-the-pulley-set-screws/ — be sure to check all axes/pulleys (including Z on machines w/ belt-drive Z-axis, for an HDZ, check both coupler screws).
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(for the SO3/4, X- and Y-axes) V wheels / eccentric nuts: Tightening Eccentric Nuts - Carbide 3D
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(for the Pro, and SO4 Z-axis) Lubrication of the linear rails: CNC Machine Maintenance
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(for HDZs, and HDMs, and SO5 Pros) check that couplers between the motor and ball screw are secure, for the SO5 check that the DAC which transfers the rotary motion of the ball screw to linear machine motion is secure on the carriage/gantry
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Belt tension (see the relevant step in your instruction manual, e.g., Getting Started with Carbide Machines) Note that the X-axis motor is held in place on standoffs and if those bolts are loose this can cause belt tension issues. Also, belt tension for the Y-axis stepper motors needs to be even/equivalent on each side — a significant difference can cause skipping on one side eventually resulting in lost steps on both. Measuring belt tension, squaring and calibration
Although on the Shapeoko 3, this is a good video overview on setup:
Ensure that all screws are in place and secure, esp. on the linear rails on a Pro.
Also verify that all wiring is in good condition and all connectors are secure, and that all wiring leading into connectors are properly in place.
If you don’t find anything obvious to address, let us know at support@carbide3d.com — mention that you’ve seen the above mechanical checklist, and send us the .c2d file, step-by-step notes on how you are securing your stock and setting zero relative to it and managing all tool changes, and a photo showing your setup with the stock still clamped in place.
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I will give that a try. This is a 7x7 image. Really appreciate your help and tips.
We are updating our documentation site — we’ll work out the new spot for that as quickly as we can.
Big improvements with all the great feedback. My x axis roller belt was loose which fixed the letters. Also less depth on the logo made it better. I am going to try with a 30degree vbit and see what I get. Here is the updated version. This is also a 7x7. Scrap wood so don’t mind the bottom right scratches/grooves
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this looks a lot better… few things I noticed
in the “D” of United it kind of looks like the depth on the flat endmill and the V bit are not quite the same… if you have a bitsetter… it might be that the point on your V bit is no longer/not a point… or it’s visual distortion in the picture, also possible. But worth doing a visual check on your V bit’s point for this
Some of the V edges are a little rough; could be the wood type, some stringy wood just does not like V bits at all… But you can game this a little bit with advanced vcarve in carbide create:
Lets say you picked 0.100" depth for the pocket, and set the max depth for the V bit to 0.05"… it means you get 2 passes where each pass gets the maximum cut. At maximum cut, you get the worst quality the bit will do… but if you were to set the max depth per pass to say 0.048", you get 3 passes (so it cuts longer) but the last pass would be 0.004" which ends up as a very light cleanup pass for all the slanted edges!
(with other depth numbers the math is obviously different but you can always game the depth setting for the bit so that you get an extra last pass of 0.004"-ish)
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Thanks for the super helpful information on the depth. That truly does help. I’ve been making some other items and noticed I have some hi spots on my table. I’ll be milling it today for flatness. That should be the last of my issues. Thanks everyone who chimes in. Much appreciate this forum.
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