Inverted Chamfer/Dovetail Bit - French Cleat

Anyone find a good source/solution to mill an french cleat into a wall hanging? Basically have a few wall hangings between 3/4" to 1" of solid hardwood. What I would like to do is install an aluminum angle edge on the wall and then mill the matching edge into the back of the wall hanging. It would be like a chamfer bit but inverted narrow where the cutter meets the shaft and increase in diameter the longer it gets.

edit: The shape would be similar to a dovetail bit but looking for one with a much a greater angle so there is more material to grab in the french cleat application and less likely to get knocked off the wall if bumped.

Your best bet is to make a fixture which will hold the wood at an angle suitable to make the cut as a series of flat bottomed pockets.

2 Likes

Or use a circular saw / table saw. You could use a 3D tool path but that would take forever.

3 Likes

I would start with a pocket wide enough to accept a dovetail cutter, than cheat some gcode to accept this cutter from Amazon. People cheated with a keyhole cutter, can’t see why you couldn’t do the same.
3/8" shank would require a proper collet.

1 Like

Here’s a collet for a Makita, or Carbide3d router.

FRENCH CLEAT 7 X 16.c2d (44 KB)

How about something like this. If you are going to use 3/4 material you will need a Vee Bit that will cut the material thickness (Cutting length).

The design is for a 16 x 7 inch cleat that you make one cut in the center of the stock to stock bottom. you need the extended cut outside of your cleat to make a complete angle cut with no end cuts for the board. You will need to secure both halves before you make the cut.

This option works if the project has not been assembled. If you can attach a file or a picture that would really help.

Anthony

1 Like

Or something like this.

Sorry for the really long link

Anthony

Here’s the wall art I’m looking to install a french cleat to hang on a wall.

Thanks for all the feedback all good options. I was looking at the aluminum Z-clips or machining some out of hardwood as mentioned by Anthony but I think these options will offset the wall art by about 1/2" off the wall (at the very least). This is why I was thinking of machining the slot on the back of the board with the cleat on the wall which would allow the board to rest fairly tight against the wall. I do also like the idea of using the reciprocating saw with an angle matching the angle of an angled aluminum bar which would also allow it to rest fairly tight against the wall. What ever option I go with it’ll definitely be a measure 3 times cut once operation as I’d hate to mess up the project at this point, many hours in this one.

This is going to a friend so I’ll ask them which option they prefer.

1 Like

Just my own opinion here, but I like the stand-off look - it makes the artwork look like it’s floating. Just put a spacer at the bottom so it stands evenly away from the wall.

2 Likes

You can do this with the Z Hanger just don’t recess in too far.

Anthony

1 Like

This topic was automatically closed after 30 days. New replies are no longer allowed.