The only problem is that I can’t advise how to do it in CC, as I use Vectric v-carve.
It still took a lot of figuring out and many practices before I got the perfect fits. All I can say is keep practicing (I used MDF to practice).
(the cut board is not a good example how the inlay fits thats why I just use it for demonstration of the depth)
And yes, functionally for a cutting board that is supposed to be used a deeper inlay also for narrow structures is preferrabe IMO because it can be almost endlessly sanded if the surface is worn.
I have no experience with bits with lower angle.
You’re mixing your terminology here. Your post talks about V bits, but your example is a TBN (tapered ball nose). Although superficially similar, they are not the same and generally are not interchangeable.
So, the answer is “CC expects V Bits to be V Bits, not TBNs”.
Regardless of software, only a perfect V cutter can make a technically correct inlay, but no V cuter is truly perfect- they usually have a .005-.010" flat at the tip. That’s pretty small, which puts it in the range of close-enough to work well in a compliant material like wood with a small glue gap at the bottom.
You can use a tapered ball mill to cut an inlay too, but the further a V cutter or tapered ball mill gets from a perfect point, the further the geometry gets from technically correct.
Use a cutter with the smallest tip you can, whether the tip is flat or a ball, and apply pressure to seat the plug, and it should be fine.
