Is there a method to test stepper motor strength?

If I remember correctly you have some skills in DC power at work, it might be worth monitoring the output voltage stability of the PSU brick to see if that’s failing.

Otherwise, I might phone up support and try to talk them into selling me a returnable if it’s not the fix, replacement controller board.

I’m a master tech st a car dealer so dc voltage and I get along great. I don’t have a scope but I could grab one of my flukes from work and monitor min max Voltage.

I’m tempted to just buy a board and if it doesn’t fix it I have a spare on hand. That’s how tired I am of break downs

Cannot wait until I have space for a big machine. Keep eye balling shop Sabre is or ism 510

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Yikes, those look more expensive than a car, I’d be really upset the first time I crashed a tool into the baseboard on a machine like that…

2100 ipm rapids. Mitsu feedback steper motors, the position feedback loop for the steppers is fiber optic and has a 4 million per revolution rpm. They cannot loose steps. If for some reason it does it auto compensates and you never know.

I think most people cut at 600+ ipm with a 3/8” bit through Baltic birch 3/4 doc.

I could load my most popular product and make 400 of them by just hitting start and coming back in a couple hours. That currently would take my 8 stock changes and 16 bit changes. And 9 hours.

Anyway enough day dreaming. If I have the energy tonight I’ll see how it goes with new bits.

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I bought a new Shapeoko controller to replace my flakey usb connectors. The board was $99.00 + tax shipping was free. I keep the old one for a spare, not that I will ever need it. I have kept every nut and bolt that came off my machine from upgrades and etc. Never know I will need it. I also bought a Shapeoko maint kit, they were $99.00 and are now $69.00.

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I got 5 minutes into may file and the power went out for 3 hours. Just got it back on thankfully I’m all electric and it’s 27f outside.

Will try again after work tomorrow.

I’ve been looking at the ShopSabres. Almost pulled the trigger on a unused one, still originally packaged, awhile back. Couldn’t find a owner/user locally, or much of any feedback on the company or the unit. Couldn’t even manage to get accepted into their facebook group. Appear to be nice machines though.

Call them. They will bend over backwards for you from what I’ve seen.

I love the free training and tech support when you buy one (I think for life)

I had a machine spec’d.

But, I probably wouldn’t buy a 45k car without a test drive, and getting some non YouTube/affiliate reviews either. Unfortunately, haven’t done biz in a shop running one yet. I had a ballscrew machine spec’d, but after talking to the shops that cut my stuff, it’s been generally recommended that I go helical rack. Their helical rack system is much cheaper, might have that priced out at some point.

Yup - for woodworking, rack and pinion might be worth serious consideration (or at least a trip to Utah and/or North Carolina.?!)

About my problem… non existent with fresh bits. Working on growing a pair of balls and pushing the 1/8” compression faster so it doesn’t overheat.

About the rack , I don’t want to worry about the play induced by the rack. Plan on doing aluminum and plastics, And running high feed rates on wood. I’m really not interested in anything but ball screws st this point I’ve learned my lessons with compromises and have no interest in making them on the next machine.

As a side note I have never bought a $45k car without a test drive. Instead I special ordered and purchased a $62k truck without test driving it…

When it comes to the point that I’m ready to buy one I’m going to grave the truck, camper, dog and maybe my wife and go for a drive to Minnesota and and play with one at their factory.

The glue in Baltic Birch is really hard on endmills!

Likely even less compromise here!
Getting 3 phase power in your new shop?


It’s just weird that a 1/8” bit would not break before it lost steps in my mind.

3 phase is the big question that will have to be answered prior to me purchasing property for it.

The machines I’m looking at have the option of single vs 3 phase. The spindles are the question I don’t have an answer to yet.

On a side note I finally broke down and bought a usb isolator to try and deal with my disconnect issues. Will be here sometime this year hopefully. Took a while to find a surface mountable unit with a metal box and that did not have 40 USB ports.

How about trying some diamond coated bits for chewing through that glue?

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You’re on the right track there. Of the manufactures I use, and have visited, CROnsrud is often on the floor. Even the smallest entry level machine like the M series, is considerably more expensive. The M series is rack. And for that matter, most production machines with “long” axis are.

While I work with the industry, and have worked in it to some degree in natural stone fabrication, I am certainly no expert in the mechanics of the machines. So take my current perspectives with a with a grain of sand. The mechanics at these facilities have suggested that rack systems and bearing systems both have advantages and weaknesses, one is not simply superior. The rack being generally preferred on the long axis, the bearing on the short(Z). Some of the reasons for this: The rack provides essentially linear rigidity despite feeds, faster accelerations, and easier maintenance. The bearing rigidity is not linier under acceleration due to bearing whip, and requires additional engineering considerations. They change out various components on schedule, the gear boxes, pinions, and rack; but its apparently a breeze compared to bearing systems, which also require drive train changes on some scheduled interval in these 24/7 shops. So while the bearing is capable of higher potential resolution, the rack is generally better placed for speed and linearity on a long axis. I’d guess it comes down to what you make, how fast you want to make it, and how much you have to spend. Certainly large bearing machines on the floor, but they seem to be in another atmosphere of price point and complexity.

Anyway, sorry to get off topic. I enjoy checking out and learning about these things. Pretty neat to see how automated these shops are. Autoload and unload, automated box and packaging machines. Everything is a robot.


If you exceed 5 HP you’ll probably need 3 Phase.

IMO getting the spindle cable out of drag chain, away from it, and preferably perpendicular to it would help too,

I didn’t chip up my cutting edges at all on the 1/8”. I was just over heating. I added 50 percent more feed and cut my doc in half. Seems to be running a lot cooler but I’m over amanas rec chipload. Before I was at their chipload. So now I’m at 60 IPM at 18k rpm and .375” doc per pass instead of .75”

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That’s a much more reasonable price than I can find here - even for Amana’s version or Freud’s version. I wonder if they ship to US (no VAT).

I was tempted to grab one just to see how long it would last in plywood and MDF.

Are CMT not available in the USA then?

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CMT is available here (even from Amazon), but at near list price for those (other types are often more reasonably priced). Even at list price they might be a good value if they last as long as claimed - especially since they “can be re-sharpened up to three times” (with even harder diamonds?)

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