Is this better than the 800Watt version?

@mjmike6988 Thank you for the detailed explanation. My background is electronica & computer science, so, I understand exactly what you’re saying, but I don’t think I should worry much about the heat issue as the spindle is water-cooled with a decent pump. My worries regarding the 220Volts are I don’t know how to get the 220Volts connected to my house? And Also, my understanding is the main reason to look for 220Volts would be to upgrade from a single-phase to a dual-phase or triple-phase which I don’t think I need for a small desktop machine as the Shapeoko.

1 Like

If you live in North America, your electrical main to your house and your panel should be 240V for residential power. To get the 240 to your Shapeoko workstation, you need to add a 2 pole breaker to your panel and run your wire (of the proper gauge according to your local code) to your workstation. However, based on your comments, I would suggest that you ask a licensed electrician to do the job.

4 Likes

What I’m interested in is finding if the 1.5kW spindle/VFD is a suitable option or is it a dead duck i.e.: not much more power and all inconvenience of a larger spindle.

Exactly. Also, I’ve read enough over the past year to convince me that operating any spindle above .8kw on 110v is sub-optimum.

Again, this is just me, my opinion based on my research.

Also, running in 220v circuit to your garage is not difficult, lots of advice out there. Or, have an electrician do it.

1 Like

Where did you see that the weight difference is very small ? I did not find the spindle weight info on this Amazon page you linked, only the total package weight, and you can see there is ~5 pounds difference between the 0.8KW version and the 2.2kW version.
Anyway this is irrelevant since I see you will be using the HDZ that can handle even the heavyweight 2.2KW version.

@luc.onthego I live in the NE part of the USA, and the electrical main to my house, and to most residential buildings as I understand, is 110Volts and not 220Volts.

Contact your power company to verify. If its up to code That doesn’t make sense to me. All electrical appliances/ stoves, dryers, water heaters all take 220v power. Not everyone uses gas. So 220v is standard building code. Your main outlets will be 110v, but your house is still 220v. If that makes sense.
You only use one pole for 110v vs using 2 poles for 220v.
Call your electrical supplier

4 Likes

Yep, like @mjmike6988 said, you absolutely have 240V capability in your house. Electric stoves and driers run off 240V. How they do this is by wiring two “hot” 120V wires together to form a one-phase 240V circuit. This uses two breaker slots and is a piece of cake to have an electrician wire up for you.

1 Like

Open up electrical panel. Turn mains off. Remove cover panel from from circuit breakers. Keeping fingers away from everything (there is still power to the back side of the mains) peek inside. You should be able to see two, large copper busses (bars) in the back of the cabinet. Each of those busses carry 110 volts. The circuit breakers alternate contact to one or the other bus to carry power into your home. A 220 circuit will use both, thus 110+110=220.

1 Like

Based on the video provided in this post, you’d likely be happier with one of the Jianken (high-end Chinese) spindles “discussed” previously in the thread. Personally I’d opt for the 1100W Italian Technomotor because it supports ER20 collets and should have more than enough power for the Shapeokos. You’d need 220V for it (and most other spindles), but as others have pointed out you probably already have it somewhere (at least at your service entrance panel/meter).

As you know a 15 Amp 110V circuit is capable of providing 1650 Watts, more than twice the power of the 800 Watt spindle - so don’t sweat that. In fact, the VFD would produce less EMI at the lower voltage. The better 220V VFDs have EMI power filters because of that. Note that the Shopbot Desktop Max uses a “1 HP” Italian HSD spindle powered by 110 V.

1 Like

Totally your call, over here 2.2kw works really well as we have 240v as standard.

If you can use one, I would :slight_smile:

1 Like

It appears that you developed the HDZ at least partially to support heavier spindles, right? The OP reportedly has a HDZ on a XXL machine. Has it been determined that the added weight of the spindle/mount and HDZ are compatible with the standard X and Y Axis drives on the XXL (or even the small machine)?
In contrast, the OP here said that the 800 W spindle “The OEM Z axis will work fine with the spindle motor, weight is very similar and spindle will fit into OEM mouting system with the Makita shim that comes with the Shapeoko.”

1 Like

That’s just wrong!!!

Maybe I didn’t understand “110v has to work twice as hard to deliver the same power as 220v”. Could you please elaborate?:thinking:

Yep, the HDZ was designed to take 80mm spindle.

I think an 800w spindle is comparable in weight and size to the trim routers used.

The HDZ is well tried and tested on the Shapeoko, and there are no known issues with the added weight.

3 Likes

I believe what @mjmike6988 is trying to say is that anything at 110V will require half the amperage at 220V to achieve the same power. One could interpret this as less “work” to deliver the power but in reality, it is the same power being delivered and the same cost from the power company either way.

2 Likes

But I “heard him saying” that 220V circuits and loads are far superior to 110V circuits and loads - which is just wrong and likely misleading to some. Do you agree, or did I misinterpret what he was trying to say? Maybe he can clarify as I’ve asked him to. :wink:

@mjmike6988
Sorry if I said something that offended you and hope that I don’t do it again! But I think that it’s important to clear this up.

I agree with “For 220v 1000 watts = 4.5 amps/ 110v 1000 watts = 9 amps /Same power just half the amperage” But, if the power system is wired and used properly, the difference in the (negligible) amount of “heat” produced in both 110V and 120V circuits is plenty safe. In the US, the NEC and UL Standards ensure that. “What kills you is AMPERAGE not voltage. So in turn running 220v is Safer.” What kills you fast is electrocution, the risk of which increases with increases in voltage. What kills you slowly is fire, which is more likely to occur if equipment/loads aren’t protected by properly sized circuit breakers or fuses. What damages equipment/loads is not providing them with the voltage they were designed for.

"NOW go down to your ELECTRICAL SUPPLY store (not home depot) and ask them how Voltage correlates to amperage draw and the given benefits from it." I’ve found this to be far more useful.

@Julien, other EU follks
Most residential wiring in the US has 110-120V outlets and breakers rated for either 15 Amps or 20 Amps. What are yours rated for? What are your equivalents to our NEC and UL standards? :thinking:

2 Likes

In France, we have 220V outlets and typically use a mix of 10A, 16A, and 32A breakers on the various outlets. My garage outlets are on 16A breakers. The regulation is called NF C 15-100, but that’s a local French thing, I have no idea how it compares to NEC/UL.

1 Like

This topic was automatically closed 30 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.