Looking forward to my new BitRunner

My new BitRunner should be with me in the next week or two, so I’d like to ask a question about the installation, please.

Currently, my Makita is connected to the mains via an NVR E-stop button, so my question is this:

With a BitRunner installed, do I still need the E-stop button for the router and, if so, should it be installed before or after the BitRunner? I’m thinking before it.


It would be best to have it before and things connected so that both the router and machine are stopped.

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Ah, the company who sold me the switch said only one device per switch, but maybe they wanted me to buy another one!

This one comes with a sinlge socket connected to it, which I could change for a twin.

Thanks, @WillAdams

I will of course yield to the company — do they have a switch which supports multiple devices? Or do you feel confident of wiring up a bar so that you could push it and close two paddle switches at once?

I’m pretty confident about wiring a double trailing lead (bar?) up, but will get one I can wall mount. The existing one looks like this:

…and is connected to this…

…so it shouldn’t be too much of a problem!

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usually these kind of switching devices are about how many amps they can interrupt…
I can imagine two full routers being too much
(but a router + a bit of electronics is a different magnitude)


Look up the specs of the switch. Usually it would be rated for 15 AMPs because most duplex receptacles in the US are 15 AMPs. If the E switch is rated for 15 AMPs then get a power strip and plug the power strip into the E switch. That would include the BitRunner, Shapeoko and any other lights or other equipment you have running during the Shapeoko run. Just add up all the things running and if they total less than 15 AMPs you are good.

If you need to switch off the E Switch you do not want the router still powered. I have a BitRunner and gcode triggers it to on in Auto mode. I have never tried to leave the BitRunner plugged in and turn off the Shapeoko, but you could try that. Remember both the start and stop signal is given from the Shapeoko controller so be sure to test it because once the Shapeoko is switched off the router would most likely still run. Most E Stop situations are usually involving the router chewing up a loose part.


Wow, where does the time go?

Thanks @gdon_2003. Are you saying the Shapeoko and the router could essentially run from a single NVR?

The one I’ve got has a 10A rating at 230Vac, so I’m guessing this would more than manage the power of the router (710W at 230Vac = 3A) and the Shapeoko (no idea, but less than the router)?

That would make things much easier, because I could change the outlet to a twin without a problem - as long as both the Shapeoko and the BitRunner/router need to be on the ‘safe’ side of the NVR?

Just to take this a little further, I’ve also got one of these which I was thinking of using in conjunction with the router, so the wiring diagram would look like this:

…but would increase the load on the NVR by another 3.3A

Any thoughts?

Look at the Shapeoko power supply the rating is printed on it. Then add up your amperage. As long as your emergency switch is not over loaded it would be fine.


I think I’m confusing myself:

The power rating of the NVR is 2.4kW, so it’s my understanding it should be able to handle the Shapeoko (150W), the router (710W) and the vacuum (1.1kW) without a problem, then?

The amps tell a different story:
The current rating for the NVR is 10A, but the Shapeoko 3A, router 3A and vacuum 4.5A added together, by my calculations, is too much!

My understanding of electrics is a bit rudimentary, though!

Currently (see what I did there?) I’m running the vac and the Shapeoko from one mains outlet (they’re rated at 13A in the UK) and the router from another, but they’re all on the same supply, which has an RCD in the consumer unit - and it’s not tripped yet!


When I made my emergency stop circuit I needed to cut power from two separate sources. One source provides power to my router and shop vac, the other to the Carbide Motion controller. This was to address the issue of EMI. The idea being to keep the devices that create electrical ‘noise’ - shop vacuums and routers - from the electronics modules.

I chose to use a 24 volt safety relay and 3 pole contactor.


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If you are driving everything from a single 110 volt circuit, my favorite solution is to use a Kreg router switch. It’s nice because you don’t have to do any actual wiring, and it has two outlets already built into the back. I use one for the router and one for the Shapeoko electronics but YMMV, have not seen any issues.


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