I made this as a test cut, but it evolved into a Christmas present.
It looks good under a light, but flat when not carefully lit.
What is a good color/finish to use that shows the terrain easily ?
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I know you would have to machine another piece but it would be best to test a few different finishes to get the desired shading.
I think your best bet is to increase the contrast between high and low spots.
Maybe borrow from the model painters and use a dark wash over the whole thing? A thinned wash will pool in the low spots increasing pigment concentration there. At least when applied at the miniature scale, it’s a very low effort, simple to implement method for popping contrast.
My biggest issue with committing to these sorts of “throw it on and pray” approaches come from the engineer in me. I want it exactly how I want it…that said, I’ve never been disappointed in the results of a dark wash on anything I’ve worked on from mini painting to brass black on metal arts. It just works 
But yeah, anything to increase contrast. Maybe throw a piece of mantle trim on the bottom and put an upwards facing light strip in it? Intentionally throw shadow up the piece.
Certainly a little more involved but it’s well within your capability if you feel like jumping in.
Whatever you end up doing, that’s one hell of a Christmas present. Awesome job 
I am going to cut a few more, and this piece has risen from the ashes ( pre firewood status ).
Contrast is the key. I like the pooling idea ( I am lazy ). I have sanding sealer on it now.
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It’s a tough one. In nature hilly terrain looks more dramatic with shadows being cast by a lower sun. High noon, look from above at a snow covered terrain and it won’t look as impressive; needs shadows.
- I think oiled Walnut can take a topo well.
- Multicoloured plywood. Not used it myself, but seen others.
- Exaggerate the height more in the modelling tool you’re using.
- are there roads/paths you can trace on the surface? That can sometimes hight light the contours
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The answer could be a glaze, but sanding sealer won’t be sealed enough for that type of treatment. A glaze sits on top of the finish, and when dry another layer is applied over it. With a glaze you can also “control” the darkened areas.
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I was playing with different colors and found a glossy color showed edges better than a matte finish. I think I am going to try some glossy urethane.
On the fly testing …
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Interesting, maybe the reflections from the surrounding environment extenuate/highlight the slopes at different angles and different sides catch different surroundings, much like side lighting. I might also give that ago next topo run.
I’d suggest anything higher gloss that will increase reflections. Wash wouldn’t likely work well as you don’t have creases or edges for it to flow into to highlight, and puddles in the bottom wouldn’t look natural. Washes tend to struggle with gradual, larger areas. If you are wanting to spend effort on it you could try to sort of zenithal highlight it, stand it on one edge and spray a light color at a downward angle, stand it on the opposite edge and spray downwards with a darker, might turn out interesting.
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Well here is my attempt. I have not applied glossy to the overall piece.
It it teetering on going to the firewood pile.
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MMMMMMMMM Pizza 
@jtclose Have you seen this StudioZ video? Airbrush worked well
No I have avoided airbrush to date.
I think I am putting lip stick on a pig at this point.
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@jtclose , After watching his video a while back, I gave some thought to airbrushing but I don’t thinnk I have the talent or need for it …yet… lol
Don’t knock a good experiment. I like it.
Could one mill to an elevation, paint the revealed terrain then mill the lower elevation. At least get some snowy caps or a tree line.
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Maybe just cut in Spectraply?
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Progress, always forward! I think it looks pretty good, I would hang it on the wall to reference later.
Hey Tim you must have a lot of walls
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How do you think the roof is held up! 
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It was a good learning experience. I just didn’t realize there was a whole set of new questions !
Here is the victim before the paint job.
I got the process of setting up the Topomiller to get a predictable result using Fusion for the tool paths.
This example used True height ( because I like to stay accurate and I have a tendency to be heavy handed on the art side ) , did you noticed that ?
Topomiller will show you the X Y and Z dimensions, based on your settings, before you Export STL file. That allows you to pre-determine how it can fit within your stock. I scale the Model in Fusion to fit the stock.
I learned that defining the “frame” around stock first, then start playing with Scaling to fill the available volume for the carve.
I use a Pocket path with a 1/4 flat end mill for the first rough cut leaving 0.010 stock remaining.
I use a series of Scallop path with ball end mills 3/4, 1/4, 1/8. I now added a 1/2 ball to the list.
I do make a 1/16 path, but that is dense and can create artifacts.
I leaned to increase the cusp heigh to get rid of extraneous paths, trying to keep some important ones.
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Perhaps that is just an unremarkable terrain? (No offense meant! 
)
PS. We have a lot of unremarkable terrain here in Texas!