I am surfacing a large piece of Mahagoney (maybe cherry). I am getting burning with a 1" Whiteside 6210 surfacing bit. After getting this surfaced I have a project to cut out.
I have tried speeding up the router and slowing down the router. I have tried increasing/decreasing the feed rate and the burning persists.
Any recommendations on F&S on Mahagoney and/or Cherry so I dont get the burning. The bit will likely be the #251 Down Cut End Mill and the 1/8" ball nose (Cant remember the C3D #).
After getting both sides flat I ran it throiugh the planner to clean up the burn marks. I then took it over to the table saw and trimmed the rough edges. This may not be mahagoney but cherry. The grain looks like charry.
When I get both sides flat I can send it through the planner but my concern is when I cut the project.
I have had burning with this same bit much like the pictures you posted. The Whiteside 6210 is not a bottom clearing bit and the burning starts on the plunge and movement for the next row of cuts. The 3 cutters are not flat bottom ground and do not make a true flat cut until it is moved along. This bit worked great on a router table for a small rabbit. I did slow the feed rate and router speed and had better results. You need to adjust these as needed to make chips not powder. While in your flattening program you can adjust router speed and the feed rate until you get the chips you want. leave the dust collector disconnected and see what the chips look like and adjust as needed.
If you have the handheld controller you can do the flattening manually and move the bit completely off the project. Again you want chips not powder when doing this.
On another note the burning marks I had when flattening did not show up when doing the actual project. If you have one side flattened use your planner to flatten the second side it will save you a headache or two.
From the picture the material looks like cherry. I don’t know the tooth count blade you are using on your table saw but usually the higher tooth count blades do cause burning. The gullets on the higher tooth count blades are small and hold a lot of shavings and when the shavings cant get out fast enough the burning starts.
I have a pile of boards I bought from a musical instrument maker. The wood was rough cut and I thought it was mahagoney. Now that it is planned I am pretty sure it is cherry.
My saw is a powermatic 66 with a forester II 40 tooth blade that is sharp. I always get burning on cherry because cherry is full of resin. The blade and fence are in alignment but the wood is 2 inches thick.
Since this was burning so bad just wanted some advise on f&s to avoid a lot of sanding. I have cut a lot of cherry but not much mahagoney.
a while back I thought I needed to replace or have re-sharpened Table saw blades and router bits. I was sure they did not have that much mileage on them but t hey did see their unfair share of resinous materials. I purchased a bottle of blade an bit cleaner. The results were nearly miraculous. https://smile.amazon.com/CMT-Formula-Blade-Cleaner-bottle/dp/B000BJJY5C/ref=sr_1_2?crid=22O8FETEANB8L&keywords=CMT+Formula+2050+Blade+and+Bit+Cleaner&qid=1658618358&s=hi&sprefix=cmt+formula+2050+blade+and+bit+cleaner%2Ctools%2C86&sr=1-2 All the blades and bits I was ready to scrap or send out for re-sharpening cut like nearly new. I have since made it part of my routine to take a bit out of the spindle and place it it into a cup of cleaner at the end of the project they get a quick brush (nylon or brass brush) and wipe down before being put away. If I see any start of burning on the table saw I take 10 minutes to clean the blade and I’m back in business. If you told me the difference keeping the bits and blades clean made I would have thought you had stock in the cleaner company.
I agree with cleaning. I have a jug of Rockler blade cleaner. I use a stiff nylon brush to clean bits and blades. For router bits with bearing I recommend removing the bearing. I bought an Infinity tools router bit jig that holds 1/2 and 1/4 bits. You just turn it over to reverse tightening/removal. Makes bearing removal easy.
Two things come to mind:
First, especially when cutting on the table saw, cut the first cut an1/8" wide and then recut at the size required. It usually solves any burning issues. I do about 50-75, 1 1/2" cherry/walnut cutting boards/week and this does the job.
As for cleaning your blade, go in the kitchen and get your wife’s “Oven Off” spray can. Find a flat aluminum foil pan, like for cooking meat in the over. Need only be an inch or so deep.
Use rubber gloves; spray both sides; let sit in the pan for 15-20 mins. You may or may not have to, but I then use a simple old toothbrush and in less than a min. on both sides, you have a new clean blade. With all the boards I cut, this is almost a weekly activity.
2 cents worth
BTW, do not spray the Oven Off in a closed area! Really powerful stuff.
That is a good saw. now that you say the material is 2 inches thick the 40 tooth blade is still a high tooth count. I use a 25 tooth blade for anything that is over 1 1/2 inches thick. you will get better results.
