That is the sort of work that is beyond my abilities. I’ll bet it would take me days of work to get the X/Y/Z back. I’d probably have to make a relief in something to hold the body and then clamp the body in the relief, to get my coordinates back. And even then, I’d break 2-3 bits testing.
Those are really tiny holes.
I’ll keep my fingers crossed that this goes well for you, seeing as you have so much time invested already.
It’s actually pretty easy and straight forward. Once you do this a few times, it becomes easy, and will take less than 20 minutes. Here is the process:
I will use some extra clamps to set a few stops so that I can rotate the watch. More on this later. I will also place 2 clamps on the lugs to hold the case down to the machine.
Probing using the end mill:
I need to share that fact that having the Additive Aerospace Probe helps for this type of re-setup. First I will use it to check that the part is flat, by probing the Z in 4 or 5 places. Once I am happy with the watch being parallel to the table, I will move to the main bore. Here I will use a trial and error method of centering the cutter to this bore by probing +Y and -Y until the reading is the same (meaning I am in the center of the bore in the Y axis. Then I’ll probe -X and +X until in am in the center of the X axis. I will then recheck the Y just for piece of mind.
Now that Z is flat, and I am in the center of the bore, I will move on to getting the top and bottom lugs in line (This step will get the bolt pattern in line). I will then probe a top and bottom lug. If then are not in line, I will lightly tap it to bring the lugs in line. This is where the 3 clamps from above will allow me to rotate the case without losing the X0 and Y0 position.
From here is should be as easy as rerunning the the old drilling program (with a larger drill), and everything should be perfectly aligned.
Feel free to ask, if I didn’t make is clear. I hope that you will try it sometimes.
Band? No haha. This is an OLD watch (20-25 years old) that is just getting a new Case, new hands (glow in the dark, which helps with my aging eyes), a Saphire crystal (because I usually scratch the heck out of mineral glass) and a new Crown (because I lost the old one (so unlike me) I will probably buy a new canvas strap, since I find the metal bands to hot here in LALA land.
Time consuming operation to remove 1/8 from both sides, (because I couldn’t find a thinner piece of stock) but the Shapeoko (Makita) handled it without a hitch. PS: Same 1/8 Endmill. Case Cover Outside (side) should be done tomorrow.
You can see where I failed to compensate for the additional clearance for the OD cutter path during the Facing operation. I don’t like Fusion’s facing operation’s lack of a round facing operation.
The outside of the cover (Case Back) is complete. Easy day for the Shapeoko 3.
Note: There is only 0.003 clearance from the top is the screw to the cover. Not too much, and not too little. Just enough. It’s all about the Precision
Man, thats just flippin awesome!
That is one fine tuned machine.
Hats off to the planning, programing, and the fine tuned machine you have there.
It’s great to see people make stuff, not excuses
Inspiring.
II’m a watch collector and have a few high end watches, as well as having toured a few factories in Switzerland and there are 3 lug options. Cheap watches use a casting with the holes already in the Lugs and minimal machining. (Usually brass and then plated). Next are that cases that are fully machined (Stainless, Titanium, Gold) the Lugs are machined all the way through and then plugged and sanded smooth, and lastly, machined and unplugged (which is the method I’m using.)
Good question by the way.
Drill will be a 1/32 carbide, but first I will need to mill a flat using. 1/32 endmill (since the surface is angled)
Down to the nitty gritty details. I need to make sure that the thickness of the cover is spot on, because there is only 0.020" (0.5mm) under the screws, and the main part of the cap is 0.035" (0.9mm) thick. I plan to put a bunch of engraving on this cover, both inside and outside (August).
Here’s how I ensure accuracy from the outside surface to the inside surfaces. The stock measures 0.375" (9.5mm) so I use this as a base and then use a drop indicator.
Do you run through some type of thorough check list before each operation in something so precise as your watch here,
Wheels, belts, steps per calibration etc. etc.?
In the initial post you mentioned that it will be waterproof. How does that work? Is there a gasket or something? Very interesting project, thanks for posting it!
I have a polishing recommendation. Mirka Abralon pads in 500, 1000, 2000, 3000 and 4000 grit. They work wet or dry. Normally they are used for bowling balls but they do a really great job on gloss topcoats on wood and on metal and plastic.
If you look at the Warch case (IMG3636, about 3 days ago), you’ll see an O-Ring groove that will seal against the cover, and the new crown also has a seal (I call it an o-ring).
There were many difficult challenges in making this watch, but they pale in comparison to the concerns, worries, and fear I had in tapping these eight 1.2mm x 0.25mm threaded holes. I’m glad to say that they came out fantastic (no broken taps). Nothing worse than finishing a part, then breaking a tap!!! Now let’s put this thing together!!!
Watchmaking on a Shapeoko 3 (Even I’m amazed this time)