Hi all, I know this isnt a machine question, did a search and did not find an answer. What kind of longevity can be expected with the MC Etcher on stone? I would be etching pictures on black stone tiles.
Disclaiming any experience on stone… but etching on stone is a very permanent solution. Etched tombstones last decades. Unless you are asking about the longevity of a diamond drag bit on stone? That would be infinitely variable based on your settings and the type of stone you are etching. I do tons of acrylic, which is much softer than stone. The etchings are permanent…still look the same years later. The McEtcher 120 degree is my favorite and it is almost like new.
Hi, thanks, i am extremely well versed in stone, i am just looking for the appropriate tool for my cnc. Im new to cnc, not stone and well aware of the appropriate hand tools to make countetops. If i need to go with a sintered dry bit i will, i am just researching. I emails sales and they said it would not last very long on glass or stone.
Got ya. I have designed a few monuments for a fella that carves gravestones. There are a few cnc machines made specifically for that. They handle a water bath and manage the slurry. If you want deep relief it’s the only way to go. I designed this (or rather recreated) this 1904 Medal of Honor for him and he cut it. He has a couple of machines now, I think. This is one of them.
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Its nice work. Im just trying to use what i have to its ability hence etching. I know the Shapeoko isnt meant for stone work of that caliber. Ill call around to the stone tool suppliers to see if they have anything for me. Thanks again
That is one of those things where it is difficult to answer, because the diamond tip is worn down based on the hardness and abrasiveness of the stone / metal /plastic you are engraving. It’s like asking how long to car tires last. Do they last months or years or decades? Well, just like car tires, they last so many feet of engraving, based on the above info.
So, no one really wants to say how long they last, because I don’t think most programs track linear distance for each file, and I sure don’t track total linear distance on my DDE bits.
What’ll happen when it starts to get dull is the lines get lighter, and you have to push down harder by increasing the plunge depth. It’s a gradual process, so unless you abuse the bit and rip out the diamond tip, it’ll just eventually get lighter until you replace it. It’s not just - one day it doesn’t work. You’ll have time to replace it once you notice getting lighter marks.
Here’s some of the things I’ve done on my SO3.
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Thanks for the info. The sales team said it would only last a couple hours on glass and likely less on stone. If i cant find a cost effective tool i will just put the idea on the back burner untill i find something that works for me.
The tool is a diamond and is very hard. However aggressive F&S can break the diamond off its mount. The diamond is not likely to wear out but more likely to be separated from the tool.
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Yeah, I got lucky when I found my DDE bit. The company no longer exists, or if they do, they don’t make it any more.
It’s great because it uses 1/8" shanked diamond inserts, which are $5-ish on AliExpress. I just have to use my Dremel and cut the shafts to length. The original inserts - that I could not get any more - had a small shoulder that held them in the holder, but when I couldn’t get any more with that little shoulder, I just put a 1/8" magnet inside to hold the diamond insert in place.
Here is a new diamond insert at the top.
One of the original diamond inserts, spring and tension screw.
And the diamond holder.
Here is the replacement diamond insert cut shorter than the original, so the magnet that holds it in place makes it the correct length.
Also, made it easy to swap inserts - just pull it out and pop in the new one - no need to have to take it out of the spindle.
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Mark, I can confirm that the McEtcher will wear rapidly on glass. Quick enough that a detailed contour of an island group (eg Hawaii) about 24 x 10 inches may trash the diamond. This was rapid enough that I will avoid glass going forward. A side question: what would you use to vcarve a name in a standard sized brick? Thanks.
Thanks for the input. I chave never tried or thought of vcarve on a brick. I know there are sintered dry v bits. I bought one from home depot for around 25 or 30 bucks. The down fall is that it is a 5/8 11 thread for on a grinder. You would to buy an adapter to be able to use it on a spindle. An actual granite tool supplier would have something im sure but an adapter may be required. I havent looked into it as of yet. Its on the list lol. Suppliers like Granquartz, Braxton Bragg, Defusco and Helix tools are some of the bigger north american suppliers. Granquartz Canada and Derusha are in Canada that i have dealt with. I hope this helps
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I would use a PCD v-bit. I have used them on marble coasters with good results.
Here’s a video of a carve using a PCD bit.
These are like the ones I bought: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804044293787.html
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Thanks for the feedback on the brick question. I accumulated a few different bits awhile back with no luck. It seemed the variable composition of the brick (some soft chalky material as well as small rocks) made it difficult to find successful parameters. Someone in town was doing it commercially but they have since stopped. I have sintered bits and will order some PCD. Thanks again.
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