I had a flakey usb port. My machine was 2016 so it had a good board but flakey. The new board was $99.00 plus tax free shipping.
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I just ordered mine yesterday.
I do have a complaint though.
I looked at the installation document and It is very hard to get around having 2 pages side by side in the browser. And in Acrobat reader is no better. Having to scroll sideways is a real mess when you have to zoom in on it to see the pictures and read the text.
I’m not sure why it was done this way. All the other documentation I’ve seen is one page per page on PDFs.
I just noticed the PDF file name has “smaller” in it. Is there one that is regular size?
Thanks,
Jeffery
Take a look around your Acrobat, you may have 2 page setup. I often print in “booklet” form to get multiple pages on a single page of paper.
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If you’re comfortable with some small electronics work, I made a PCB that breaks out the switch pins to screw terminals. I “future proofed” it by adding a 5V rail and some PWM pins. You could easily remove the connectors on the prox switches and use the screw terminals. I’ll have to track down the extra boards, but it’s yours if you want one.
It mounts directly to the 12pin connector on the board. The controller cover won’t fit anymore, but yours is old enough to look a little used. 
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@neilferreri Thank you very much for the offer, but this might be out of my league! I’m comfortable with most things except when it comes to these boards, I’m afraid I would make matters worse. Support did get back with me and i think I’ll look into that path of getting new. Thanks again for the help and offer, I really appreciate it!!
Interesting to see the 5v rail brought up to the headers. The surplus current available on the CM PCB 5v circuit is not great, so if you are going to use this 5v ‘feed’ you will need to keep down below 100mA or less. The on-board 5v regulator only has so much current and thermal capacity… Best to use the 24v and provide your own 5v on the PCB from my experience (unless you are sure of max current demand).
You’ll never guess how I learned this 
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The 5V was only pulled out for lines like those on proximity switches or a probe indicator LED. I’m not planning on running anything with the 5v. It’s the same idea as the expansion board C3D has now or that others have made. I’m actually not using it now (still on original Omrons), but I thought I might in the future. I also wanted to bring 12v and 24v out, but I figured I’d outgrow the controller before I made any use for those.
@osu22go No problem. Are you getting the new “Pro” controller?
Oh, I didn’t even think about it being setup as side by side pages.
I just opened a new download of the PDF in Acrobat and the Initial View in document properties is
Two-Up (Cover Page)
Thanks for pointing that out 
Jeffery
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Question how hard are they to install
Is there a video on installing them
Jeff
Have you see that one ?
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The inductive homing switches are quite simple to install, please see:
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I just finished my xxl upgrade to proximity switches. The upgrade was simple and took about 2 hours to complete. Although my upgrade took about 3 hours because I cleaned off dust from places that are otherwise inaccessible and removed the old sticky pads from the original assembly. These sticky pads had failed long ago. The original pads were the rather thick sticky pads and separated. The 3m pads they sent with the new drag chain brackets will most likely hold well but if they dont I can replace them.
In my post I had only one issue. The switches all worked by testing them with a piece of metal, however during the first initializing the X switch was set high to be detected and the machine made the horrible buzzing. I had my hand on the off switch so it only lasted a few seconds. I moved the switch down slightly and the metal frame would trigger the switch. Initialized and continued with setting up the BitRunner and all went well.
I like the new riser board that has all 3 sensors. I hooked up the BitSetter and BitZero to the riser board. Don’t do that. The BitSetter ran ok but the BitZero did not work properly. I put the jumper board back in, no harm no foul.
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I had a similar experience, took about 2 hours of actual install time to put them on, plus some cleaning/wire cleanup time, plus a chunk of time chasing down a problem. The female connector for the riser board won’t seat fully onto the mail connector on the Carbide Motion board, as a result the cover won’t go back over the controller. I pinged support and as always they responded fast and are looking at it (support has always been great for me, kudos guys). My kit was also missing the M4x6mm BHCS for the Z-Axis Proximity Switch Mount but I have an assortment so that was no big deal.
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Just opened up the box with my new proximity switches and the M4x6mm screw is missing. Unfortunately i cannot find a substitute in my collection of odd screws 
@neilferreri. good question, I don’t know the answer to it or know if I’ll be able to tell when I get it…I ordered it up so I’ll let you know when I get it. I had another limit switch issue so I’m hoping a new board and switches will let me start from scratch and it will all hopefully work!
Has anyone here had experience with Carbide3d exchanging or accepting returns on items? It looks like I ended up with the standard proximity switch kit instead of the XL that I need (I assume that’s what it is as my pigtails on the switch are really short). I’m tempted to go ahead and order another kit hoping that it takes care of the issue, but I don’t really want to keep the standard kit. Also, does anyone know if the location that they ship from in sterling, IL is one where I can walk up and try to exchange this? I thought I would see if anyone had any experience with this. I do have a ticket in and I’m sure they are looking into it in shipping, but I’m just on the edge of not getting this in time for a project I want to work on Friday if I don’t put in an order soon I would guess. Thanks for any ideas you all might have!
in my experience an email to support and all reasonable requests get fixed quickly
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