Need help! Shapeoko 4 xxl

Hello i have a shapeoko 4 xxl ive had it for about 2 weeks now. I made this 6x15 sign and started with a contour toolpath around the name with the 1/8th 102 bit then do a pocket toolpath with the 1/4 201 bit. Both toolpaths i have set to remove .2” and i do have the optional bitsetter. The weirdest part is some parts look flush between the toolpaths and some spots look like there’s still some to be removed which leads me to believe its not a bitsetter problem. Thanks

What feeds and speeds are you using?

What depth per pass?

Are you using the BitSetter to manage the tool change?

I am just using all of the stock settings and yes after a tool change it automatically goes to the bitsetter. I can check the feeds and speeds and depth per pass when i get home but i have not changed anything

I cannot see all of your project but the #102 bit is likely wasting time. The parts I can see would be cut just fine with the #201. However I would use a #251 and/or down cut bit. The #201 is an up cut bit and pulls the unsupported wood fibers and leaves the mess at the top. A down cut leaves the top much smoother and only if you cut through the ragged part at the bottom. Since you are pocketing and not going all the way through the bottom is supported by the wood fibers left. So a down cut bit would work much better and require less clean up.

If you details really do need the #102 then just do a contour cut on the outside of the letters and then do a pocket with the #251/201. If the intent is to have raised letters and a pocket around them just draw a box to leave as a border and pocket inside the box and the letters will be left alone. With a single bit you dont have to change the bit and use the BitSetter unless you want to.

Looking at the path I would not suspect the BitSetter but is your spoilboard trammed to the router. Another thing could be if your stock is not really flat. You could surface it with a fly bit before starting the machining and after flattened set your Z zero. If the stock is not flat and you zeroed on the high spots then the low spots would not seem deep enough and vice versa.

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Your second paragraph is exactly what i did. I have to use the 102 to get into some fine spots of the cursive thats why i just contour with the 102 then pocket with the 201. I have not trimmed my wastboard to the router. I got the hybrid table with the machine not a homeade table. The panel i used may not be 100% flat but it wasnt bowed up on the table or anything and even so both bits should go down to the same z axis regardless if its a little bowed. Thanks for the info on the 251, this is all new to me im learning!

I had a similar problem when I first installed the Bitsetter option. I went into the settings for the machine in Carbide motion and verified all were correct and reloaded them into the controller. That made the bits line up on the z access properly every time I change them out. Its important to make sure the whole table is level too, I put on a bigger bit and shave the surface a couple of millimetres.

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