New Project Nervous Jitters

[ehendrix (Eric Hendrix)]

I am about to embark on a new project in Fusion360 I have never attempted previously and not sure exactly how to begin.
My wife has asked I make her a wooden plate as a decorative aspect in our house.
10" with a 1 or 2" center. I want it to have a top and bottom.
I have never used register pins but I’m not sure I need them for a round object? (Except for centering purposes?)
This will be run on my SPXXL.

Any advice for a novice here?

Eric

[LiamN (Liam Newcombe)]

Which bits are you not sure about?

The CAD design of the plate, converting that to CAM or workholding / fixturing on the machine?

[ehendrix (Eric Hendrix)]

LiamN[Liam Newcombe]
(New Project Nervous Jitters - #2 by LiamN)
“Which bits are you not sure about?”

1. As stated I have never had a project with a top and bottom.
2. Tabs, to me do not seem to be the right way to go to hold the plate for 2 sided machining? Maybe a JIG of some kind?
3. Where to start? A Jig, a Plate Blank (wood circle)
4. Bottom first then top to have tabs?
5. Carbide Create or Fusion 360?

My wife “JUST” told me it doesn’t have to be tapered that it can be like a charger and have more of a flat appearance.

My mind is all over the place.

[neilferreri (Neil Ferreri Ω)]

@ehendrix

it doesn’t have to be tapered that it can be like a charger and have more of a flat appearance

So a flat disc?
Maybe with a flat rim?

If that’s all she wants, sounds like a one sided project. Easy, but not as fun.

Like this?

[ehendrix (Eric Hendrix)]

Yes, like that.
I have something drawn up in F360 but I do not remember how to link it to the community.
My bad here is my link.
https://a360.co/3yooyHG

[ehendrix (Eric Hendrix)]

This is a little thicker than I want it is about 0.7".

[LiamN (Liam Newcombe)]

You can also file / export to an f3d and then zip it for upload here.

Plate Example v10.f3d.zip (2.2 MB)

I knocked up a simple plate (it’s not exactly pretty but it contains the major features for machining) and then threw some toolpaths at it to see how one might go about double sided machining it.

This is not exactly a tested set of toolpaths, take it as an indicative suggestion.

A plate, and a surrounding square stock body with room for four pegs to locate it after the flip.

The stock prep job faces the stock to height and then bores right through it into the wasteboard to provide locating holes for the pegs (make sure it’s just MDF under there). It also trims the outside of the stock to square to help with zero-ing after the flip.
Note this side is spoilboard Z zero.

Then the top side job (off the same zero point) roughs out with the 1/4" 201 cutter and finishes with the 1/4" ball nose, leaving big chunky tabs around the edge of the plate rim.

Then you flip the piece, locating it on the four pegs, this is where you find out how square your Shapeoko really is. The rim of the plate sits on the wasteboard, you could put a support block under the center if the plate body is thin too. 1/4" 201 for roughing and 1/4" ball nose for finishing again, leaving some of the tab depth in place for you to cut and sand off later. Note this job is top of stock zero.

Hope that helps with an idea of how you might go about a 2 sided job and cutting the bowl angles on a plate.

[neilferreri (Neil Ferreri Ω)]

I’d just use a corner stop, assuming your stock is cut square.
Carve the top.
Flip it with the same corner against the stop.
Do the bottom and through cut.

[ADesigns (Abdulrahman Z)]

@LiamN

ere you find out how square your Shapeoko really is. The rim of the plate sits on the wasteboard, you could put a support block under the center if the plate body is thin too. 1/4" 201 for roughing and 1/4" ball nose for finishing again,

really nice method of doing two sided machining.