Omg z axis you will kill me!

Hello All

Been away from forum for a while because me and my SO3 have had a real partnership we have been making a bit of money and life is good!!.. until about 5 hours ago

So i was doing a project with pockets and started to notice too much striations did a quick Z axis test and it is out of alignment by a bit ( to be fair i was pushing the machine on previous project) and as a result i think i cut to fast too deep and this has had the alignment issue on the Z carriage.

No problems got out my dual pro tram gauge did my prep work then… 4 hours later !!!mad%20as%20hell

So to be fair i am not trying to get 0.0 but i cant even get within a mile of anything decent, i have suffered from day one with this issue i simply cant get the eccentric nuts / v wheels to put z plate in alignment - when i finally do make it close all 4 are barely touching and with my little finger i can move the whole thing and dewalt around like a joystick, so absolutely no use as this would jump bounce all over the place.

So this is a really bad time for it to happen i have a few important project i need to finish, this pressure plus the inability to tram the z made me walk away from machine because it was genuinely frustrating me.

so i have two questions:

1: Anyone got any tips to tram the z that will not result in the creation of new swear words?

2: I have been looking at the Beaver HDZ + probe, will this solve my problem and make traming easier ? anyone out they got real world experience of the Bearer HDZ and it’s tramming?

I would really appreciate any feedback you can offer on both questions

P.S i still love my SO3 i just think the Z axis is an area that needs to be looked at going forward, i would and still do recommend the SO3 #i loveyouso3 :slight_smile:


1 Like

The eccentric nuts should not have anything to do with tramming. The stock Z is very capable when adjusted correctly.

Have you seen the new tramming video that Winston made on the Carbide 3d youtube channel?

1 Like

Hi Vince,

Thanks for the reply yeah seen that and will again try the points within the video, but mine seems to be more fundamental, i simply cant get the z plate to remain in contact with the v rails without there being a huge impact the the orientation of the router so it ends up being extremely loose and not fit for purpose for cncing. i know the Axis can work as i got it to work before but for whatever reason this time i simply cant fix it for now

Please examine your Z-axis belt — I suspect it’s failed or failing — let us know at and we’ll get this sorted out.

1 Like

I suspect Will is correct.

I have 9 or 10 spares that I don’t need anymore. PM me your home address and I’ll mail a few to you if you like.

Pay it forward.


Have you confirmed the two extrusions on the carriage are aligned and vertical? They cant be checked with a dial indicator but an engineers square will get you pretty close. From memory mine took a few goes to get right


Hi All thanks for your Feedback i have tied loads of your suggestions and signposts and not been able to get very far, i decided as a late xmass present to myself to pull the trigger on a HDZ i will work on that over the next few days and report back as to how that (hopefully) has fixed the issue

Again thanks for all the support i will be back soon


Another possible option might be to replace the screw with a slightly longer one, and add a nylock nut after the eccentric nut.

1 Like

Yeah, the original configuration was:

bolt | washer | plate | eccentric spacer | washer | nut

which was kind of nice / easily adjustable, but very bulky and not suited to the very tight Z-axis.

Evening all well 12 hours at the SO3 and I am please to sat that I can report two things 1 stock z axis issue identified and 2 new beaver hdz axis on!!! Very tired so will report back tomorrow with z stock cause tldr part is that 2 v wheels had split vertically in affect they where two halves I have never seen this before explane better tomorrow thanks again for all the info on thread put it to good use today


At the start of each new cut day, spin check each wheel. You will easily be able to identify and issues quickly. The wheels can break or split when over tightened or from crash stresses. These delrin wheels are a consumable but should last a long time with proper use and care.


I will note that that is implied in the machine operating checklist:

This topic was automatically closed 30 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.