I will try sealing the work before carving next time. But compared to just carving by sealing I found my first attempt with the mask quite good. The picture of the crown with the mask was not sanded after removing the mask. The carving is a little big but the original was a jpg and I converted it to an SVG. Then I enlarged the svg in CC. The crown lines were a little wide. It was carved with a 90 degree vee bit.
Right now I have put a coat of dewaxed shellac on and tomorrow I will sand to 320 and apply a second coat of shellac. Then I will use a wipe on poly. By sealing with shellac I find that it takes less coats of poly to get a smooth and great finish. If you do not seal first it takes another 2 or 3 coats to get a smooth finish. I have a HVLP Earlex sprayer but it takes longer to clean it up than it does to spray. Plus right now it is barely 70 degrees and it takes longer for finish to dry when sprayed in the cooler temperatures. I find that the wipeon Minwax poly is quite durable. I build my living quarters and have a french door as an entry door. I built an oak threshold and applied 3 coats of wipe on poly 3 years ago. I step on the threshold several times a day and it still looks great. My shoes have grit from outside and the durability of poly is great. I will use a satin poly. I have used gloss poly before and on some projects it looks plastic like with gloss. The satin gives a smooth surface and non glaring. I have tried spray lacquer but I find it is not durable enough for things that are handled. So the entire project is ready to be finished. The board, base and drawers are all built, sanded, and partially sealed.
I did the whole chess set with the table saw but just had to have some Shapeoko work so I chose to put the crown on the drawer fronts. There is a drawer on both sides with a divider on the middle to stop the drawers. I will most likely put a magnet on one side of the drawers to keep them from falling out when moving the chess set. The drawers are on oak runners. I could not find any drawer slides that were small enough. I have a one inch overhang on the board and even with full extension I wanted the drawers to come out far enough to get at the men. I went to Hobby Lobby today and bought some red velvet material to clue to the drawer bottoms. I used to make captured bottoms in drawers but not after gluing the drawer I rabbet the bottom with a 1/2 inch wide and 1/4 inch rabbet, counter sing the screws and glue the fabric on the bottom and then screw it in place. After I get the drawer bottom installed I will use another piece of the velvet on the bottom to keep from scratching furniture when the drawers are removed. I find this construction works better for small drawers and makes the drawer a 1/4 inch deeper.