Curious if anyone else is experiencing this issue?
I’m having a lot of problems with Oramask 813 adhesive coming off of the mask and remaining on my project.
I’ve tried Oramask 813, 811, and 810s. Most of my previous problems were related to the solvent in the"rattle cans" making its way through the vinyl mask and creating a similar problem. Oramask 810s solved the solvent problem but it’s “tackiness” was to weak for CNC work.
On this attempt, I did not paint over the mask as the router bit was too dull and did a very poor job.
When removing the (unpainted) mask, as you can see from the picture below, the Oramask 813 adhesive remained.
I can even lift up a portion of the adhesive and pull it off, which tells me that the paint / polyurethane on the sign did not compromising the Oramask adhesive.
I’ve experienced this from multiple rolls of Oramask sourced from a variety of suppliers.
I’m at a loss as to alternative approaches. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
I’ve had the same thing happen, and honestly I do not know why. I was told Oramask has a shelf life and that could be it. I’ve only had it happen on a pre-painted surface like you. I’ve never had it happen on wood with a lacquer coat. I’ve switched to shelf paper from Walmart, and it works fine, but it still wants to leave a residue. I’m wondering if the weather has anything to do with it, but I really have no idea.
The only thing I may be able to help you with…Use a pink eraser to remove the residue. If the base is wood, just sand it off.
Could it be that the paint was not fully cured before you placed the mask?
Have you tried the cheap shelf liners (Duck brand white EasyLiner) from Walmart? I have had good success with it and the price and availability is much more attractive than Oramask. At a little bit over $5 a roll, it does not cost much to make a test.
I still have a problem with residue using the shelf paper. My base is usually birch ply, so I just sand it off.
I really wondering if it has anything to do with the colder weather. I do think I may try a heat gun or hair dryer at some point though.
Maybe the brand of paint you are using for the base coat contains a solvent for the glue in the mask. Mine comes off perfectly to date. Most of the rattle cans I have used for the background so far are Rustoleum and store brand. However, the fact that it comes off in specific areas and not overall would point to the paint not being fully cured before applying the mask or as you mention, a defective mask. Maybe you could try using a hair dryer/heat gun to ensure the paint is cured properly. I have been careful of waiting about 24hr after painting the last coat and putting the mask to ensure the paint is cured.
Hmmm, I did see the note about solvent based paints not being compatible with 813 and did not put 2 and 2 together. I wonder if me using lacquer to seal the wood is a contributing factor to my residue issues?
Thanks luc. My Walmart rolled showed up today.
Plan to try it soon, but discovered one of my stepper motors burned out tonight. Replacement on order.
Also, the Paint and Polyurethane had cured for over a week. I used to have problems with the paint coming off with shorter cure times but a week seems to work nicely.
I bought some water based Polycrylic to try out instead of the lacquer I have been using. This was a night and day change in the residue. The shelf paper peeled off so easily, and there was absolutely no residue leftover.
