Can anyone think of any other things than what I suggested that I would need to run this machine?
For instance, I have a 4 inch dust collector hose. Is there a way to hook that up to a shapeoko?
Further details are available at appropriate places in this and also see: Machine operating checklist and be sure to read Introduction - Shapeoko CNC A to Z and Getting Started with CNC [Book]
- eye and hearing protection: https://docs.carbide3d.com/shapeoko-faq/safety-gear-and-necessary-precautions-when-using-the-machine/
- Additional assembly tools: Flush cut pliers (or scissors — fingernail clippers can also be used to cut a short zip tie with a nicely rounded edge), Needle nose pliers, Tape measure or ruler, Level, Pencil; possibly also Easy-peel masking tape, such as blue painter’s tape (nothing that leaves a residue behind), Adjustable wrench, Flashlight
- a trim router (you can order with a machine, but Carbide 3D only has our Carbide Compact Router and the ER-11 version, but if you prefer you could get a Makita RT0701/0700, or if getting a machine w/ a 69mm spindle mount a DeWalt DWP611/D26200)
- better quality wrenches for tool changes, see tools - shapeoko
- Carbide Compact Router
- some endmills (one is included with the machine, but they’re consumables: Shapeoko Endmill Starter Pack - Carbide 3D ) If one is starting with just a 1/4" collet:
- three 2-flute 1/4" straight endmills (such as the #201 endmills from Carbide 3D — one will be included with the machine, a pack of two will fill one out with: 1 for initial experimentation/roughing, 1 for finishing passes, and 1 spare — if cutting wood or plywood a downcut endmill such as the #251 is recommended.
- two 2-flute 1/4" ball end endmills (such as the #202 endmills from Carbide 3D) — if one wishes to do 3D modeling or cut parts which have rounded profiles along the bottom (often a good idea in woodworking for increased strength)
- two 90 degree V-bits such as the #301 from Carbide 3D — if one wishes to do V-carving or cut joints which use this angle
- If you wish to do small-scale or precision work you may want a 1/8" precision collet (we sell one for the Carbide Compact Router (also works for the Makita): Precision Collets for Carbide Compact Router - Carbide 3D and is now bundled with units sold directly from Carbide 3D):
- five 2-flute 1/8" straight endmills (such as the #102 endmills from Carbide 3D
- two 2-flute 1/8" ball end endmills (such as the #101 .125" Ball Cutters from Carbide 3D)
- two smaller straight endmills (say 2 mm or so) (such as the #112 0.0625" endmills from Carbide 3D)
- Additions:
- V-carving bits (say 30 and 60 degrees) — these are excellent if doing text
- you should already have a place to set the machine up (the Shapeoko is more suited for use in a shop environment) — note that you’ll want to have access to the front and back of the machine so that you can feed material in from end and out the other if working with oversized material (you can process an entire 4x8 sheet by cutting it into thirds and feeding it incrementally into an XL or XXL — an SO3 would require 1/6ths). See: Torsion Box for Shapeoko XXL and Instructions
- dust collection suited to the material which you are cutting (at least a shop vacuum — many of our customers rig up dust shoes and formal dust collection) — you’ll want to tie into existing dust collection if you have it — Carbide 3D includes https://shop.carbide3d.com/products/sweepy-dustboot which will fit many smaller shop vac / dust extractor hoses
- workholding (some way to hold the material in place — this is now included for the basics, but you may have special requirements)
- calipers
- pendant option of some sort
- a game controller can be used: Using a Game Controller with CM513 and later
- the standard keyboard shortcuts allow a numeric keypad to be used as a pendant
- by remapping one can use a gamepad: A different sort of pendant
- Dedicated units are also available and one person used a Stream Deck: Carbide Motion DRO Pendant
- good quality square for assembly or positioning parts
- tools to break stock down — just a handsaw will allow one to purchase long boards, break them down in the lumber yard parking lot, and carry them home even in a small car
- tools to post-process stock (files, deburring tools, &c.)
and of course, material and designs to cut. It is recommended that folks start by drawing up a design (follow along in one of our tutorials: Your First Five CNC Projects and watch our videos: Getting Started with Carbide Create and read through: http://docs.carbide3d.com/assembly/carbidecreate/userguide/ ) and working up toolpaths all the way through 3D simulation — if that effort seems workable to you, you should be in a good place to get a machine.
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Patience and a realization that after the process all we do is look at what we make. Enjoy your time!!
Putter on the small things with care and combined they become something bigger.
Take pictures so you can visually see your progress because at some point you’ll be great at what you do and forget where you started from.
Stay safe
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Wow, so much information!! Thank you both for your input. I appreciate it very much. Luckily I run a kitchen building shop out of my barn and I have a huge amount of those things that are needed already.!!
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I was a little confused about the pendant because I haven’t gotten that far as to what it’s used for as of yet. Well, I need to purchase one of those controllers on the list or just one come with the machine itself and those are just options?
I have been running a keypad dial. Its 18 personally set buttons. Super cool and one of those puttering add ons.
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Do you know if I need to buy one to be able to run the machine?
Pendant is any sort of control separate from the machine itself.
An SO5 Pro will come with an Emergency Stop/Feed-hold pendant, and a BitRunner will have a “Spindle Enable” pendant.
The typical function for a pendant is jogging the machine — there are a couple of options:
- using the computer/mouse/trackpad/keyboard/touchscreen/stylus — for smaller machines or some setups, this is perfectly workable
- using a numeric keypad (possibly w/ custom key mapping) — the standard keyboard shortcuts are set up to allow this to work: Carbide Create V7 Keyboard Shortcuts and c.f.,
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using a game controller: Using a Game Controller with CM513 and later (I find the control layout kind of confusing, and the device itself awkward)
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using a game pad and remapping the buttons as noted above
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actually building your own — there have been some really amazing efforts on this front, one on the Shapeoko forums including a Raspberry Pi and touch screen in addition to button controls and a joystick, and there was the nifty Streamdeck noted above — I sourced the hardware for this, but never got around to actually doing the project, bought a Techkeys unit instead:
Just use your computer or tablet and a mouse. The others are extras. The unit comes with a power pendant with pause function
Turn to start, push to stop
Do you happen to get into concrete countertops and resin at all?
I bought the Tech Keys board a month or so ago and remapped it so that the wire comes in from the top not bottom.
However, I have been having issues with it that I have not sorted out yet. When I press and hold a key to move an axis it will move a little and then stop. Then I try a different key and nothing works until I change the speed and then the whole thing repeats. I have it hooked to a PI right now and there may be some key repeat rate issue causing the problem. I need to investigate.
@Varty5 I am not doing those things any longer. The heavy stuff is starting to wear on my body so I’m trying to get into finer small things now with the CNC.
I’m watching all the training videos so I know what you guys are talking about. Still not 100% sure what this item is used for.
It’s a buffer issue with CM I think.
I can open a terminal window on the PI and the keys seem to repeat just fine.
I modified the settings for the keyboard and it helps but using CM it will move smoothly for a bit and then get jerky and or stop and then restart. The “Busy” indication on CM is on. If the machine stops it once the indicator is off it will start again.
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Hello again, so I finished watching all of the videos for how to run your shapeoko.
No, where in the video does he use a controller module so I’m really confused as to what one of those is actually for can anyone in the simplest terms explain that to me please? I’m sorry for the redundant questions.
If you need to jog the machine relative to a piece of stock there are two options:
- work at the computer and use the keyboard/mouse/trackpad/touchscreen/stylus to jog the machine around
Note that this may involve some back-and-forth — jog machine, check position relative to the stock, jog machine — this can be tedious if it requires moving between viewing the stock/machine, and working with Carbide Motion on the computer.
- use a numeric keypad (wired or wireless), or game controller, or other pendant — this allows being close in and adjusting the machine position while being quite close to it
To be clear since you seem confused.
There is no need for the controllers that have been mentioned.
They are a nice to have but not in anyway something you have to have to make the machine work.
Get your machine. Set it up. Learn it. Use it.
If you feel Ike your going back and forth to a computer then get a deepest controller to make your life easier if you wish.
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