Preventative Maintenance Checklist?

How To Machining
1

Is there an updated PM Checklist for the Shapeoko ( I have the 4 XXL)? I tried browsing the old posts, but the only link I found appears to be dead.

Thanks

2

We have:

https://carbide3d.com/hub/docs/maintenance/

For an SO4 w/ a Z-Plus Z-axis, the linear rails and blocks will need lubrication with Mobil Vactra No. 2:

or, the Pro Maintenance Kit adds belts:

Shapeoko Maintenance Kit - Carbide 3D (which also fit an SO4)

Beyond that, keeping the rails and belts clean, verifying that the pulley set screws are securely in place, and the belts are well-tensioned should be it.

An SO4 maintenance adds Delrin V wheels and pulleys and eccentric nuts and allows rebuilding a machine to like new.

For a bit more regular than that there is the Machine Operating Checklist in the manual after pg. 84:

For a printable single page version see:

3

Fantastic, thank you very much

4

Any chance we could get some pictures/photos so that I can figure out where the MGN-15 “bottom bearings” are and how to get access to them to oil them?

Also, for the HG-15 rails, where the grub screws that need to be removed for oiling are?

TIA

5

Write in to support@carbide3d.com and we will walk through that with you there.

6

Thanks, they pointed me at:

Which was good, except it mentioned the bottom bearings on my Z-axis, but didn’t show them. Aren’t they upside down? I’m guessing he didn’t show them because they’re really hard to do.

7

The bottom bearing aren’t really ‘upside down’, BUT the bearing blocks are double ended - you can oil then from either end.

As you say, the problem is accessing them. I’ve heard at least one person use a syringe, and inject the oil into the lower ports and then (quickly!) put in the bung screws.

I have a procedure that I find is pretty usable, BUT some will say it has the risk of messing up my tram (orientation of the spindle to the wasteboard). It’s always been fine in my experience, YMMV.

I’ll put together some pictures this afternoon if you like, but the short version is:

  • raise to top-of-Z.
  • put small clamps right at the bottom of the bearing ways. Clamping front-to-back is safe, the bearings in the block ride on the sides. OR, put some blocks under the bottom of the bearing ways, making sure the blocks come right up to them.
  • Remove the screws holding the bottom bearings to the Z plate. Lower the bearings down to the clamps (you see now, the clamps prevent the bearing from falling off the end)
  • There should be enough room to remove the top bung screws using the ball-end hex key that comes with the machine.

Then just reverse the procedure to put it together. I have found that with the two top bearing blocks left in place, the tram of the Z axis does not shift.

8

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