with “fences” / “walls” where there should not be some.
While these themself are not really a problem, can take them away with a chisel of course, they are up to 1.8mm ~0.07" thick. That raises concerns about the precision of my cuts, something mast have been wrong. Ideas?
both the same, for the pocket between the Vcarve bits 1/8" upcut, 1/2" cutting length. I will measure the bit when I go down to my shop, as soon as my wife lets me…
Perhaps try a test cut in a piece of scrap to get a feel for tool deflection when cutting a pocket and work out what stepover was needed to ensure that the tool takes a full cut, and look into leaving a roughing clearance greater than the deflection seen above and then take a finishing pass?
Are you using an “O” flute bit in wood? I have only used my O flute on the pvc board I have cut. Standard bits (2/3 flute) is what I use on all wood that I cut.
nope, o-flutes only in plastic, sure. I still have some bits I got from Inventables, fishtail they were called, flat tip, 1 flank, good for holes with smooth bottom, but when I see them now possibly too prone to deflection. Will try straight bits for those inlays in edge grain cutting boards. I am not too confident that sharp corner inlay structures in edge grain wood are a good idea anyway, possibly edge grain inlays should be restricted to round corners, and if one would like sharp corners an end grain board would be the best. IMO.
Made some nice pieces from end grain boards from CIC, but edge grain boards are still experimental. Well, winter will come, and the open fireplace needs some wood too…