Quiet nomad enclosure: wacky edition 2

A while back I asked if floor safes would make a good ready-made, inexpensive, quiet enclosure for the nomad. We quickly decided they would be a pain because of cabling and air flow through 6" sheet steel and concrete…

But I’m back again to ask another question: How well would a chest freezer work? :thinking:
It seems you can always find a dozen for free on your local marketplace and it doesn’t even need to be a functional freezer for our use case :slightly_smiling_face:
If we stand most any chest freezer up on its shortest size, we can open the lid like a regular door. Throw a shelf in their for your nomad to sit on and you’re good to go?
Drilling holes for cables and airflow is easy enough, just be sure to dodge any pressurized lines…
There’s also plenty of room to route proper baffling for your intake and exhaust if you so desire.
And most real chest freezers have a metal interior lining so fire isn’t as much a concern in my mind. Usually fairly moisture tight too, another plus.

Without putting any real numbers to it, I experimented with turning my phone all the way up. It was loud. Put it in my freezer, much quiter…bet you didn’t see that coming did ya :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

This is probably a sillly idea that’s not worth thinking too much about, but if you do end up having thoughts, please share them with the class :slightly_smiling_face:

Not a “silly” idea, but unnecessary in my world. I’m at least 50 feet away from any sentient beings inside my insulated workshop! :smiley:

PS. If you do the chest freezer thing, get the largest one you can find and strip out all the cooling hardware. You’re welcome. :smiley:

That would definitely work. The only thing I see as a negative is there won’t be any “windows” to see what’s going on while operating the machine.

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ISTR at least one person doing this with a freezer salvaged from the side of the road back in the SO1/2 days.

Visibility is the big issue.

Airflow and dust collection are further concerns.

Any sort of modification raises concerns about what was used for insulation and how safe it is, and of course there’s the issue of the refrigerant and any sort of damage releasing it (perhaps one could take it to a specialty shop which would recover it? Might even get paid for it depending on the specific type)

I’ve designed enclosures for industrial air-moving equipment, so I might be able to provide some ideas/ insight.

First, remember that noise can fit through anything that air fits through, but has to have a line of sight to the source, or a way to “bounce” there, because it’s a wave. A closed chest freezer is great because it’s sealed, but that’s bad for airflow.

Second, high frequency noise has a shorter wavelength, so it can move efficiently through smaller gaps, but is also absorbed more easily.

Third, sound is directional, so any sound going backwards will only be heard if it has a path to bounce towards you.

With this is mind, figure out the dominant frequencies that bother you (or others), and design around those. If it’s 1kHz, that’s around 30cm wavelength. If you can create a “squishy” layer half that thickness, by the time it goes in, bounces, and comes back, it’ll have lost quite a bit of energy. Some 6" fiberglass batt insulation in a plastic bag works surprisingly well (since the bag is nearly transparent to the sound). This is the best way to “absorb” the sound energy from the back, sides, and bottom of the machine, which is 4 of the 6 cube faces, so a little more than half of it.

To contain sound, find something heavy. Mass-loaded vinyl is great since it damps well. Cement board is pretty good too, if held together with a gooey silicone caulk. Firecore (Type X) drywall with a layer of vinyl on it (plastidip, maybe?) is a good combination of mass plus damping.

If you were to take your chest freezer and tip it on its side, then pack the sides/ back around the machine with fiberglass, it would do well even with the door open. 3dB drop, at least, to the operator, and probably 5x that to anyone without line of sight. Add dust collection so it’s always drawing in fresh air (which helps keep things like electronics cool, too) and it might be a good enough solution.

If I were to design one from scratch so I could run it late at night without bugging the family, it would be a cement-board box lined with mineral wool board 6" thick, with a 1/8" vinyl curtain stapled to the outside. A single sheet of 1/4" plexi in the front would be gasketed on, and I’d make sure a path for airflow was channeled between layers of mineral wool, but drew fresh air across the board before going into the work area, then evacuated straight out through an insulated duct (like the flexible fiberglass ducts used in a house). I’d expect 12-15dB reduction from such a setup.

But a thick, heavy vinyl curtain between you and your “target” will do 5dB for about 1% of the effort.

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Could cut a window out if the lid. Double pane of polycarbonate mounted with silicone, one inside and the other outside to air gap it a bit?
Easy to do with hand tools and still pretty darn cheap :thinking:
(Or if you’re near a major metro, those glass case freezers for ice cream or beverages also come up all the time…not sure about using the actual glass but it does address the issue I suppose)

The insulation in most freezers I’ve seen has just been expanded styrofoam, probably with some fire retardant materials mixed in.

@WillAdams makes a good point about modification safety:
WARNING
For anyone reading this who doesn’t know about the dangers of compressed refrigerant, don’t cut into anything on a freezer/refrigerator …the coolant in those things is bad news and it’ll mess you up faster than you can blink. Seriously, it’s like electricity in that if you’re not confident you shouldn’t touch it.
/WARNING

Thanks @nwilson for the many words on the topic! I’ll reply here if/when I pick one up. Get your sign off on my plans before doing any real work on it :saluting_face:

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Sort of a side thought but someone around here used sound deadening mat for automobiles applied to the nomad housing a while back which helped somewhat. Definitely not a complete solution but depends how quiet you need to go…

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Rockwool Comfortboard also makes a great sound dampener. I recently used it to act as sound dampening ‘gasket’ around the door of my big CNC cabinet as well as lining as much as possible of the interior. Really helped to reduce the high frequency noise which penetrates any little crack due to its compacted & denser fibers. It has enough integrity to use a few screws with washers to attach it to most anything.

For the Nomad, you could make a frame from fence board material & then slap Comfortboard panels all around it - even double it up by applying Comfortboard on the inside & outside of the frame. I did something similar for a temporary housing around my SPROXXL in a basement. Worked better to dampen the noise than wood panel materials (like the OSB on my big CNC cabinet).

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