I’m curious if others recommend adding a wasteboard on top of the mdf strips that come with the product?
If so, how do you recommend workholding since it would be covering the aluminum slots?
On the XXL Pro I frequently use wasteboards over the MDF when I want to use the tape and glue hold down method, or if I want to screw down a project without thinking too much about the spacing of the holes. I’ll usually cut right on the mdf when clamping mechanically.
To hold down the wasteboards, they can be clamped at the edges like anything else. But what I’ll usually do is just drill and counterbore a couple of holes in the wasteboard that are in line with the tracks and just use screws right through to the aluminum t-track block. Holds great, doesn’t move.
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I created a document that may be of use. It was developed for the SO3 XXL but the idea will work with any of the newer hybrid tables. The document covers how to make the optimum size supplemental spoilboard so the whole surface can be surfaced without leaving a ridge along the sides. When I surface mine I remove the BitSetter to make sure I do not accidentally hit it when surfacing. I disable the BitSetter in the configuration and then power off the Shapeoko and power back on. If you do not power off the first job will be an air job. It has something to do with the internal coordinates set at homing and the offsets that are kept in memory by the controller/CM.
spoilboard_considerations.pdf (1.3 MB)
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On the 5 machines I’ve had with the hybrid bed, I use the slats instead of a supplemental one on top on 4. The 5th is my HDM and it has a tooling plate and mod vises since it runs metal.
I only use secondary ones when I need a lot of area for adhesive workholding. And then I use it, then revmove it. The hybrid slats are just so versatile and easy to replace. So I just don’t cover the t-tracks.
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My XXL Pro has a 24x24 MDF piece on top of the stock MDF slats for no reason other than I wanted to. I placed a square 90 degree corner at front left and use strategically spaced threaded inserts (t-nuts) in the new top for hold downs. I hold the new piece down with screws that reach the stock aluminum pieces. Pretty straight forward and it makes me think I’ve done something smart, even though it was largely unneeded.
I squared my corner boards by screwing them down as close to square as I could, leaving a gap at the intersection. Then ran a 1/4-in end mill manually along the insides of each board, trimming off a very small amount of material on both X and Y axis. BINGO! Instant alignment.
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