I have a Shapeoko 5 Pro 4 x 2, with the 65 mm VFD spindle. I received it back in June, but have been working forced “doubles” since then – 80 to 100 hours a week – so I haven’t had a lot of time to mess around with it. I’m back to a normal work schedule now, so I finally have some time to dig into things.
So far so good, just completed a test project of a catchall tray, picture attached.
As a total newcomer to CNC, I occurred to me that I don’t know the answer to the following questions:
When does a collet need to be replaced?
Can I buy any 1/4" and 1/8" ER-11 collets? Is there anything special about the ones Carbide 3D sells?
I dont have a collet machine. However I have watched videos about collets and the consensus is buy quality ones. The cheap ones may not be round. So stay with name brand ones that a good reputation. The difference in price is negligible over the long run.
Like any collet replace if the bits starts slipping. A good quality collet should work for a long time. Not sure where C3D gets theirs but any replacements should be quality ones. The unique thing about ER11 Collets is you can go up to 8MM and get metric ones. However do not use metric bits in SAE collets. The collets are close but close only counts in hand grenades and horse shoes. So always put the correct collet in for the bit shank you have.
All collets need to be cleaned often. I use brake cleaner and a qtip sprayed to clean the router/spindle shaft. After cleaning everything should be dry, clean and no lubrication. The collets should always be dry. The ER11 collets have more places for dust and debris to get into them and can cause your bits to slip and rotate off center.
I use Rego-Fix HP collets. HP stands for Ultra-precision. It is what I use for machining medical device components at work. By eliminating tool run-out, you increase the life of your tool because you are cutting with all of the fluts. Good collets, clean collet nut and spindle, equals long tool life. As for the life of a collet, it all depends on tool change frequency. You should be good for a long time if you take care of your equipment. If you notice any rust, replace. Rust on a collet will damage your spindle taper. When not in use, I store my collets and collet nut in a plastic bag with a coat of WD40 and coat my spindle with WD40 and a Q-tip. I then clean them before I use them again. All of this will seem like over kill but hey, better safe than sorry.
Thanks for the replies, I obviously have a lot to learn. For example, I didn’t know what “run out” was until just now!
I’m going to pick up a set of Amana collets as a backup to what came with my spindle, I’ve read good things about their router bits and hoping the same is true for other things they manufacture.
Also, I’m going to make it a habit to properly clean and store my collets after use…I’ve been leaving the 1/4" on the machine…
Usual preface, I’m with PreciseBits so while I try to only post general information take everything I say with the understanding that I have a bias.
Most things were already covered her but I wanted to ask/address a couple things.
I don’t know if this what a typo or not and I’m honestly more curious than anything. Was “HP” a typo? The only types from Rego that I’m familiar with is “standard”, “UP”, and “micrun” (I’m not including INOX, tapping etc.). If it’s not a typo I’d like to know what they are. Couldn’t find a reference on their ER page.
Tyler already posted a link where I drone on about most of the rest I’d normally say so I’ll leave this post free of that.
Edit: I misread the below quote. @No_Soup_For_You was NOT recommending one collet for 3 sizes. Leaving the data here as it might be useful to someone.
This won’t be true, at least for the runout and is outside spec for 1/8" and 1/4".
The runout is only spec’ed for the size of the collet. ER collets are spec’ed to clamp 1mm (0.0394") smaller. But could be at higher runout or less radial slip resistance/clamping force.
5mm is 0.19685". So it would be in spec to clamp to a 3/16" (0.1875"/4.76mm). You might have it “hold” something that was an 1/8" (0.1250"/3.175mm) depending on the kerf used for the spring slits. However, it would be way out of clamping force and runout spec. 1/4" (0.2500"/6.35mm) is larger than the collet and straight out of spec. Additionally, even if you did manage to force it into the collet you would damage it very quickly. This is true even for 6mm collets it’s just easier to force it. Runout is also typically horrible using oversized shanks.
Hope that’s useful. Let me know if there’s something I can help with.
You missed what I said but it’s all good. I said to buy imperial collets for 1/8 and 1/4 not to try to put them into a 3/16 collet. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
Might be all good to you… but it’s not to me. I apologize for my misreading your post. I edited the above but left the data for potential future use. Sorry again Dean.
Yes, that was a typo. My bad. It was pretty early in the morning and I had not finished my first cup of coffee. If you realy want to get crazy with the collets, we also use a heat shrink system. This is by far the most accurate method you will find but crazy expensive. Look up ThermoGrip® TER Shrink fit collets.
) all great info, much of it related to collets and such.