Best I can come up with is to add a 3/4" bowl tool as a ball in my tool library at the correct diameter, and a 3/4" ogee tool also as a ball. Just have to keep in mind what bit I’m using because the simulation won’t be right. lol
Anyway, bowl at a .375 depth, followed by Ogee on an outside offset at a depth of .187 and an inside offset at a depth of the same. Then run it as a test case and adjust from there. Once I dial in the depth, offset, and what tools to use, I can apply that to making doors.
I haven’t been able to find a plunge cut that exactly matches the profile of these cabinets, and those that are close are 1/2" shaft.
Any pointers you’ve come up with when replicating specific profiles on existing mass produced cabinet doors? The desired endstate is for the new cabinet doors to match the rest of those already in the house. (Or at least close enough that they look the same a foot or two away.)
You are likely correct, but that wouldn’t be as much fun. It might eventually be the answer, but I’m not there yet.
I want to try and match it first before spending $50+ on a prefinished door I might be able to make myself for about $20 in materials. If I can match it, I’ll have about 15 doors to make or at least $750 in prefinished doors, with a cost of about $300 including buying end mills I don’t already possess.
I should also mention this is for my house, so no worry about time frame or customer expectations (other than those of my beautiful bride…).
A noble goal, but if youre making that many, why not replace them all with an updated design? You could do some amazing styles, rather than copying an old one.
I’ve thought about it, and it’s not a bad idea. Just a difference between making the 15 doors I’d need for the 5 new cabinets I’m building or the 40 doors and drawer fronts on all the cabinets that will be part of the final build.
One way to get a nice cross section that’s easy to measure is to ‘squeeze’ a template using bondo or wood filler. Cut a block of wood that loosely fits the shape of the panel. Paste wax or furniture polish the area so the filler doesn’t stick. Or use a layer of thin tape or mask material. Squeeze the bondo or filler into the shape using the block & let it harden. Sand the front face flat for a perfect cross section.
If you use the tape or masking, round up your dimensions just slightly to account for the tape thickness.
