Resource Question; Does Carbide Share XXL Waste Board Dim/Drawing?

Hello all,

I need to make my own waste board with holes for alignment / some sort of clamping system for when I start cutting plywood.

  1. I was wondering if anyone knew if Carbide shares drawings of the XXL wasteboard?

Making a new waste board I need to know if there is a chance in getting marks / by wrong runs making marks in the waste board. I´m thinking of making a split waste board.

First layer with 3/4 MDF
Second layer with 3or6mm MDF

Each hole in the lower waste board will have threaded interests of some sort.

I guess this is an extremely elementary question by me; that never has runned a CNC machine:
Is it a necessity to install threaded inserts in my waste board?
Using dowels ( for example 9mm in diameter ) a good alternative for alignment / holding the workpiece in place?

PS: I will then not have any for for hold down equipment ; but is this neseccary when the most sturdy material I will work with is Oak / but mostly work with plywood with 3/4 thickness.

AFAICT no public drawings for the XL or XXL wasteboard designs. http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Shapeoko_3#Drawings

Either I was mistaken, or the drawings were since published. See: https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/B.O.M.

Couple of different ideas at

http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Workholding

I’m planning on PVC interspersed w/ T-track: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/User:Willadams#Wasteboard

I haven’t seen one posted yet, but they have happily posted some of the others (Nomad, for example)

I’d ask for the drawing and see what they say.

Thanks!

Considering T-tracks too , now, after reading your post; WillAdams.

  • Will also make contact with Carbide via mail to ask about drawings for the washboard for the XXL.

Thanks!

My first post was a bit messy , I guess… I wrote too many questions, but I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts about ;

Clamps ( what I would call hold down equipment )
VS.
Dowels ( placed in holes in the waste board ) for just holding the workpiece in place.

  • how much force is on the machine and what equipment is necessary for fasting the workpiece?

PS: It would be great if a tap hole ( system / grid ) + dowels would do a good enough job… !

G-Wizard will calculate cutting forces I believe.

Dowels work well for locating (frequently used for that in flip jigs), and one can use them along two edges of a piece, but they have to have something such as a cam clamp, or a sliding set of wedges to actually hold things in place.

Threaded holes in an aluminum table are one option offered by Carbide3D: https://shop.carbide3d.com/collections/tools/products/shapeoko-threaded-table — I did a grid of T-nuts in an HDPE cutting board which worked well.

I found these clamps ( see attached photo ) - they look like they would do the job with t-tracks.

The clamps are listed in the resource site you added in this thread.

Trying to figure out what a flip jig is - tried to google it, with no result. What kind of jig is it?
A lot of new glossary / terms to understand here…

Thanks for the replay, again :slight_smile:

A flip jig (actually a fixture) is one which can be turned over, allowing one to cut both sides of a piece:

You may find the glossary helpful: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Glossary

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I used my Shapeoko XXL and cut the waste board to accept the t-track. works like a charm, drill through holes and use machine screws and nuts to hold it in place.

Drew this up — please verify before use

http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/File:Unofficial_S3099_xl.svg

Please see official plans linked above.

Thanks you so much Will, strangely enough I got an email from Carbide with a drawing of the XXL wasteboard ; today !

It will be online tomorrow, On this site: http://carbide3d.com/docs/support/

I have now drawn up a sketch for a tapped hole wasteboard.
See attached screenshot.

Should I cut down the amount of tapped holes any further?

PS: this is probably a cheaper alternative for me ; I think I´ll do the tapped holes with inserts - instead of t-track.

a

If that meets your needs, go for it!

When I did a T-nut bed, I was constrained by local availability, which ratcheted up the price: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6045

Chris, do you have any pictures of this idea your put forward? Could be a valued asset for others (like myself, who have yet to purchase their Shapeoko). I’m just in the beginning learning phase.

Thanks in advance.

Michael

Just finished mine:

Details at http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/User:Willadams#Wasteboard and http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=8332

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Looks nice!

OK - so I´m trying to figure the “lesser” amount of tapholes needed in my wasteboard.

I have drawn up three alternatives - The clamps that are drawn up in the drawing be used for this setup.

I guess the alt.3 is the one to go for; last added screenshot from me in this thread with attached screenshot was too “messy” in the layout.

PS: I have used the outer diameter of the clamp as a measurement on how to “limit” the amount of tapholes.

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Hello,

  • Will I need an exact router bit that = Ø 7.7mm; that equals the taps needed for my M6 inserts?

  • I have now bought inserts for my wasteboard. They will fit M6 bolts.

  • The taphole needed for these inserts for softwood ( I´m guessing that MDF will go under this category ) is 7.7mm

PS: I have a .125" bit that = Ø 3.175mm

Hello !

I guess this will be my last replay to the topic before making the new wasteboard.

I don´t have any extra limit sensors; so will need to cut the wasteboard in four pieces. I will use a lamello biscuit jointer system.

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You can draw the holes in your CAD program as 7.7 mm and cut them as pockets

This was implied in my link.

Or, you know, a drill bit.

Only if your spindle is rated for a speed safe for the bit.