I usually just run my tool paths with the predefined settings from carbide create but I’m making a serving tray from 1/2’ thick pine and i’m wondering if i can bump the settings up a little to decrease time. I’m going to run a advanced vcarve to cut a large pocket with a 1/4’ square bit and a 60’ vbit. The CC settings are .06 DOC, 18000 rpm 75 feed and .125’ stepover. is it safe to bump that up to .1 doc?
The .25 endmill will easily go .1". I don’t understand the vbit for a pocket cut…not sure what you are doing with that. I will run my 4 Pro xxl at .125 (1/2 of the bit diameter) all day long in Pine.
The settings in carbide create are usually very conservative. I bet you can go much more aggressive. Especially in pine which is quite soft. You didn’t say what machine or exact tool you are using but I bet you could probably double the depth without any trouble. One thing to think about is when you push your machine harder you also need to make sure that your work holding can handle the increased force. On my upgraded SO3 with a spindle and a 3 flute 1/4" square end mill, I would probably start at 18000 RPM, 150 IPM, .125" WOC and .125" DOC. I expect that I could push that much further. I bet my limitation would be chip clearing/dust extraction and not the machine or tool.
Cadence Manufacturing makes the ‘Jenny’ bit for machines in the Shapeoko class (i.e., not massive hugely rigid machines).
They have F/S here for their bits. Now, the bits are different from standard upcut bits, but they give an idea of what can be done.
I thought i’d run the pocket operation as a advanced vcarve just to give a little decorative touch to the walls of the pocket. I should probably use a bowl bit but I don’t have one of those.
I have a pro xl and will be using the 1/4’ 201. Thanks for the setting recommendations, I figured I could probably push things further but I always like to check in with the forum first
Pine will also chip out on certain grain and grain direction especially on narrow sections.
Rule of thumb for wood is 40%-50% of the diameter of the bit. You can increase or decrease the RPMs on the router as it’s moving if needed. You will hear when it’s cutting correctly. Most of the time, I have the router on 3-4 on the speed control for wood.
Others will comment that you can go deeper if you are doing an adaptive cleaning as you are only using part of the bit due to the step over. That may be true, but it’s not a race. Find a feed, speed and depth that always works and stick to it.
It’s not always about the speed (or is it?). If you’re always only using the first 2mm of your flutes to cut, you could be wasting 90% of your cutting edge and shortening the life of the endmill.
Honestly for me, it’s not about speed at all. Nor the life of the bit. The flutes going up the side of the shaft has as much to do with cutting as it does chip extraction. If I am cutting a 1” stock with a .250 bit I want the flutes to be at least 1” if not 1.250”. So as I reach the bottom of the stock the chips are still getting pulled above the face of the stock. So I may only be using the bottom of the bit for the actual cutting, but the rest is still in use.
Sort of like a drill bit.
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