That’s what I’m thinking. Next is to find out where I can get a bracket for a 69mm router. I think I’m going to try the Dewalt. I’m not in a position to but the veriable frequency spindle right now.
We have a 69mm mount in the shop:
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I just saw that a few minutes ago when I went under the shop tab. I haven’t had much luck with routers so I was thinking about giving the Dewalt a try. My first Carbide router ended up frying the bearings, so while waiting for a replacement, i installed my Makita. That one worked fine for a short time but the dial would drop from 3 to 1 all at once due to not clicking into position at the dial. I installed the replacement router and now the bearings are starting to squeal in that one. I haven’t pushed it hard at all and it really doesnt have a lot of use on it.
I’ve had good luck with routers most of the time. But the honest truth is that they are just the cheapest way to get the job done. 
None are made for extended run times.
My Dewalt 611 has run fine for 4 years. Only one brush change. I turned it on and it just sat there and starred at me. I had a set of brushes and installed them in a few minutes and bam it was running again. I have run many long 12 hour jobs. I have dust collection and the router fan keep it cool as a cucumber. Now any brand can fail but the C3D and Makita seem to have a higher fail rate as reported here on the forum. Originally C3D offered the Dewalt but later got their own manufactured and the more recent new machines come standard with the 66MM where the Dewalt needs a 69MM. The Dewalt has a longer body so you can cut deeper than the Makita/C3D router. When the Z-Plus first came out many could not get the bit to touch the spoilboard. C3D has since fixed that but I am not sure how. The Makita/C3D router can run slightly slower but that has never been an issue for me. That does not mean that the slower speed is not beneficial for some but for me a non issue.
The bottom line is Dewalt has been making the 611 for a long time and I have a lot of Dewalt tools that run flawlessly. Are there better tools, likely. But for me staying in a single eco system seems to work fine for me. Like any brand you dont want the ones made on Friday or Monday because the workers are either trying to get out of work or come in hung over from weekend activities. Not sure if that applies to Chinese workers because likely every day is like a Monday with their labor conditions.
Kelly,
Take a look at the Carbide ER-11 Compact Router. They down play it a bit saying the only reason to choose it over the standard Carbide Compact Router is the ability to run tools with shank sizes other that 1/8" or 1/4". To me, that’s reason enough. ER collets also hold the tool much tighter with less torque meaning less chance the tool will pull out on you. But the huge difference is the accuracy of the collect. An ER colltet when properly mounted will have TIR of <0.0004″ (10 µm, Standard Precision) and ≤0.0002″ (5 µm, Ultra Precision). Less run out means smoother running, better surface finishes and much longer tool life. Think of it this way, the more the tool runs out, the fewer teeth you are cutting with. With enough run out on a 2 flute end mill, you could be cutting with only 1 flute. With a size range of 1/32" to 1/4", it comes in very handy when you need metal cutting tools that do not adhere to the wood cutting shank diameter convention. Dollar for dollar, I would choose the Carbide ER-11 Compact Router for the accuracy of the spindle as well as flexibility to run standard wood cutting or metal cutting tool shanks.
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Thank you. Both posts are helpful. I really need to get some time to just play around with the software and do some trial and error runs. I stay pretty busy from Nov until about April making plaques for Euro mounts. I have 3 taxidermists that I cut plaques for. Therefore, 90% of my cutting has been keyholes and contours.
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I have a MillRight M3 machine running a DeWalt 611 which I think is excellent. I purchased PreciseBits.com ER collets for the dewalt and there is practically zero runout. This is important for fine detail work I do on that machine (like MOP inlays). My SO4XL uses the stock C3d router. I had some small issues with it out of the box, but support was fast at helping get it fine tuned with required parts etc. Brushes went out once after a heavy job, but it has not been a show stopper to any extent. I bought an extra Dewalt 611 for my SO4XL but have not swapped it out as of yet. I may not either. The nice thing on the C3d router is you can use two wrenched to tighten the collet which is a huge plus when cutting guitar bodies. The Dewalt only has the button as far as I recall and I am concerned if the collets would tighten up enough to use a 3” long bit through 1.75” stock. Though the ER style collets on the Dewalt (purchased separately) do not require near as much torque as the stock C3d collets. I’m on the fence of what my next move will be. DeWalt or ER version of the C3d router.
The problem I have is that since starting to use my Pro XXl in June, Ive had one C3D router smoke the bearings and the replacement one is staring to squeal and its only been in the cnc for about 7 or 8 hours of run time. I used my makita between and due to the dial not locking into place (Ridiculous design) it would jump speeds. C3D is great for their support, no doubt. I just want to be able to run without having to continuously replace my router.
Just wondering and haven’t seen it posted yet, but what material, bit and feeds and speeds are you using? Just a thought, but if your settings are not close, you could be pushing the router (or bearings) too hard. IE running a low RPM and a high feed rate through oak, iron wood, ipe or similar.
The one nice thing about all these routers with an adjustable rpm, is you can adjust on the fly. If the machine is working to hard, you can increase rpm or if the chips are more like dust, slow it down etc.
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When cutting Red Oak (which is what I mainly cut), I’m running a 1/4 inch cutter @ around 17,000 rpm, .095 inch cut depth and 30-35 ipm. I always stay right at the cnc when it’s running because I have noticed a few times where I could tell it was hitting harder areas in the wood or even from board to board. That way I can hit the decrease feed on the computer. I never push the machine hard. That’s why I dont understand the issues with the routers.
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If the speed and feed sound wrong for cutting red Red Oak, I am very open to suggestions. My DOC for a 1/4" spiral upcut is at .095 in.
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If you are using a spiral upcut end mill, then those numbers do not seem out of line.
I based it off of what the cnc at work runs at with minus the depth of cut. The guy running the cnc at work is way off on his feeds and speeds. You can tell by listening to it. He runs a half inch compression through 3/4 mel at full depth of cut (3/4 in) at 750 inch per minute. And can’t understand why he throws parts left and right. Can’t remember what the rmp is set at but at that fast of a feed, I don’t think it really matters. lol
I should add that the 1/4" is about the only bit he runs at a somewhat normal feed and speed. I actually had discussed some of this with the programmer.
I like C3d and the support they give. However the C3D router is a clone of a Makita which is not the best of the best. So cloning a less than perfect router results in what you are experiencing. Do Dewalt routers have problems, yes, but you hardly ever see anyone complain about a Dewalt router on the forum. In the early days of the SO3 the Dewalt was offered and they included a spacer to accommodate a Makita. Now the Dewalt is not as popular as it once was. I have been on the forum for a long time and I cannot recall any complaints about Dewalt. That is not to say there are not any but I have seen a lot of complaints about the C3D router. Is the complaints because it is sold with the C3d machines and considered as part of the Shapeoko or is just because they are not the best router you could get. I have the Dewalt and like it so much I bought a second one with the plunge kit for general shop trim router use. The Dewalt 611 will not replace a larger 2-3 HP router but for use as a trim router it is pretty good. I have never needed to put in my second router because the one in the Shapeoko has never broken down.
So you have to evaluate your needs and go with what causes you the least amount of headaches. My Shapeoko came with the Dewalt but if I had headaches caused by it I would replace it. For the modern C3D machines the only choices are the Makita or the C3D router which is a copy of the Makita. So which do you think is the better router, the Makita or a cheaper copy of it. If you already have a 66MM mount and do not want to buy the 69MM mount required for the Dewalt then get a Makita. If your machining is business critical then have two. If you are just a hobby machine then put up with the down time or go up to a full spindle. The choices are simple but the decision may not be so simple depending on how critical your machine is and your budget.
The Pro XXL is much more robust than my SO3 so maybe it is time to move up to a spindle that can take better advantage of the capabilities of the Pro machine.
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The issue I had with running the Makita is that the dial for the speed does not lock in place. I ran into the issue of it changing speeds on its own. And it was usually a big drop in rpms. I have had several people tell me they liked the Dewalt and haven’t heard much of problems. I plan on going to a spindle but it’s not in the budget right now. (according to the wife). I did upgrade to the HDZ at the purchase of my cnc in anticipation of going to a spindle eventually.
Ha, I also have a second Dewalt (and plunge) for general routing besides the one I bought to replace the C3d router. So I have two besides the one in the smaller CNC. I really like them. I may end up buying the 69mm mount and changing it over. Do you use the precise bits.com ER collets? According to Precisebits.com they do not recommend the Makita at all. But they also don’t make any parts for them, so it may be just business.
Kelly, just a few other things to look at before installing a new router.
In step 1 of 7.2, they say to insert the router as far as it will go. Well, there is not a shoulder on the router housing to sit flat on the router mounting block. I would suggest inserting the router as far as it will go then lifting it up 1/16". This will insure the mounting block bore comes in full contact with the machined portion of the router housing. On a Dewalt, you may have to lift it a bit more due to the amount of radius they machined on the router housing. In any case, you want a cylinder to cylinder contact only.
In 7.2 Step 2-C. Remove the Grub screw. This is critical and understated.If you tightened the two (2) M6×25mm SHCS as seen in step 3 of 7.2, you may not be clamped on your router housing securely and damage may have been caused to the router mounting block.
In 7.2 Step 3. They say “Fully Tighten”. I know not everyone has a torque wrench in the tool box but it would be great to have a torque spec here. If over tightened, it could crush the router housing enough to cause bearing issues.
As you tighten the router mounting screws, compression forces go toward the center. The hoop strength of the router housing is a lot less than those two screws can apply.
I hope this helps.
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