Need to watch this if you’re getting uneven lines on your cuts with down bits. (And I know you are.) Garett Fromme from IDC explains this very well and how you may be able to eliminate most of it. This would be a great feature to add to Carbide Create at a future update.
While we don’t have a “Set Last Pass Thickness” button, you can do this by setting the depth of cut.
In his example he’s cutting 0.100" deep, and leaving a last pass of 0.007
In CC, if you set the max depth to 0.100, and the depth of cut to 0.093, you will get the same thing. 
For deeper pockets where you want multiple rough passes, and 1 finish pass, set the DOC to a factor of the rough depth. i.e. You want to cut 0.500 deep, with about 0.100 DOC, and leave 0.007
So your rough depth is really 0.493. Divide that by 5 passes to get 0.0986 DOC. It will likely round that off to 0.099, which will leave 0.005 instead of 0.007. If you need a bit more finish stock, make the DOC 0.098, and leave 0.010 finish stock.
One thing I like about vectric is the last pass and being able to set that. I usually run like .004 as a final pass, which it does do at full DOC, so you have to be a bit careful.
I’ll have to watch that video (i’m “working” at the moment), i primarily only use down cuts.
My 1st thought is, wouldn’t a compression bit be a better solution (vs an extra pass)?
A compression tool requires toolpaths which at least engage the bottom of the downcut portion of the cutting flutes which is difficult to achieve with our machines/software.
Thanks Will, that makes sense
The compression bit will still have excess forces on the tool when removing more material, which cause deflection both horizontally (XY) & vertically (Z), The forces may be different with a down-cutting flute on the tool, but the objective of the rough/finish strategy is very little resistance on the finish cut to take all of those forces out of the equation. Now you’re just left with the inherent accuracy of the machine & setup.
Tod - Since we don’t have the “Set Last Pass Thickness” available in CC, I totally agree with your explanation of how to get around the step down levels the bit leaves. I really like the way you described it and had to read it a few times and visualize what you meant. I guess it all boils down to what we’re willing to settle for our final result and how much cutting time we are also willing to sacrifice for perfection. Garett Fromme’s video did shed the some light on this issue and explained why these step down marks show up on our projects. Which brings me to another question, and perhaps you can answer. Would the use of an UPCUT bit eliminate the step down issue?
I have a thought here that may be of some use with choosing which endmill to use, (down cut or upcut). The main issue with upcut bits is they leave that little nasty tail of material at the top of the cut which means more sanding and prep work for finish. Yes, down cut bits help to eliminate these rolled wooden burrs, but to what extent? We then trade the wooden burr at the top of the work for the step cuts at the bottom of our piece?
But a solution maybe in front of us all along. If we choose to use an angled bit to cut the material around the lettering, or design itself, wouldn’t it just be better to go ahead and use the upcut bit and then come back in behind that process and use the angled bit to finish over the design helping to remove all of the upturned material from the upcut bit? Or instead of running full depth of the material depth of cut, just make a smaller round over or angled cut along the border of the design where the material needs to be removed?
That is maybe one idea for the work around of trying to use a down cut bit.
I have gotten into Adv V Carveing my projects since @WillAdams gave me some help. I have done the pocketing first with the effect I had hoped for. As long as your machine is working properly, I have found no issues.
Here is the link. Multiple layers of text with a graphic - #4 by WillAdams
Thank you for the info. I think this was one of the post that was given to me before and I have read it over. I was able to follow along for some of it and then things went south on me and I got lost in it. I think the best thing for me to do is to bring up the post and also bring up CCPro and work my way thru the steps and make it work for myself. This way it is hands on instead of just reading and maybe getting lost.
We are always here to help. I myself need the crayola version to get it down pat.
Good Luck