I am completely new to this world. I have a 1/2-3/4" HDPE material that I need to make a handful of recesses/slots for a shelf that I am reselling. The overall size is 14"x11".I could have it milled for me, but if I need to make small changes, I want to be able to do that easily without relying on someone else. I plan on making 10 or so of these per month…so not a lot of volume.
Basically I am making a shelf where I need to make 8 slots about 1/2" in length that are recessed to take 1" screws so the heads of the screws are flush with the shelf surface.
I would like to have a good vacuum system when I am making the cuts.
I talked to Shapeoko and they suggested the pro because it was more durable over time…but I am not planning on doing much more with the machine other than described above. I might decide to make some gifts or something here and there…but thats it.
I bought an SO4 Standard last fall and I love it. Cutting area is 17"x17" which would fit your project size. I was totally new to CNC and if I knew then what I know now I would have gone to the XL just to have the option of being able to do larger projects if I want to. I also agree with Will that if you’re not using it all the time the SO4 models are good since there is less maintenance required.
Thanks Will. In your opinion, what do I really need to buy beyond the machine? There are lots of accessories, mills, etc…but don’t want to buy things I don’t need.
eye and hearing protection — non-negotiable — possibly a respirator
a trim router/spindle — some SKUs have them, others don’t
a shop vac or dust extractor — don’t use the adapter/reducer, a 2.5" straight hose is much better than a tapered one and avoid reducers/elbows as much as-is possible
Tools
a good quality pair of wrenches which match your spindle [1]
an inexpensive pair of calipers — these will help in calibrating the machine, and measuring stock thickness before cutting
a suitable square may help in assembling the machine and in placing stock for cutting
tools for post-processing cut materials — a small razor saw, or saw blade for a utility knife is useful for cutting tabs, a deburring tool is excellent for metals and plastics, files may help make some edges look nicer, I use a chamfering plane on some edges, some folks use chisels and/or gouges to cut tabs
tools for processing stock for cutting — just a hand saw (for breaking down stock), and a drill (for placing holes for workholding) will make things far more affordable
extra endmills — in particular, you’ll want our single flute tooling, #274, #278, #282
Some additional considerations:
Additional assembly tools: Flush cut pliers (or scissors — fingernail clippers can also be used to cut a short zip tie with a nicely rounded edge), Needle nose pliers, Tape measure or ruler, Level, Pencil; possibly also Easy-peel masking tape, such as blue painter’s tape (nothing that leaves a residue behind), Adjustable wrench, Flashlight
pendant option of some sort — a numeric keypad works well with our keyboard shortcuts
[1] — post listing tools for the Carbide Compact Router:
note that other collet systems require other size wrenches (wait to buy until you know what yours needs, and have an idea of how you’ll approach tool changes).
Before you decide on any model, think of the possibilities beyond your next project. You think you only need it for the shelves now but once you get a CNC, it opens up allot more possibilities. Especially for folks making $$ with the machines.
Don’t sell yourself short and regret it later. Not telling you what to buy anything specific, just to think beyond your one specific project.
I chose the 5 Pro for tiling 4’ wide sheet goods so I had a specific minimum need.
One other thing — either a T-handle set of hex wrenches (Bondhus is one good choice, and I’m currently using a Wiha bit set, though I keep telling myself I’m going to spring for a set of PB Swiss T-handle wrenches) or (or maybe and) some sort of small ratchet.
I used my most-favourite tool ever:
(though mine is a first-gen from the Kickstarter)
to assemble all of my machines since getting it, though for working on workholding I use a “Craftsman 6 pc. Finger Ratchet”:
I have seen the same kit under a different brand (presumably the manufacturer, or some other company which contracted for it — if you find it, don’t overpay… if it’s expensive, there are better options, it only makes sense 'cause it was a good value when first released), but probably easier to just get a Chapman Manufacturing Palm Drive Ratchet:
and a set of their bits:
If: #321 Bicycle Set | Chapman MFG – Chapman Manufacturing came w/ JIS bits I’d recommend it, but it offends me that folks offer bike-specific tools w/o a set of JIS bits for working on derailleurs (Silca get a pass since they don’t specialize in bits, and I have a JIS bit set from Vessel in my Altoids case next to it in my small precision tool bag), so I guess:
My Carbide Compact Routers have always worked well.
In Support, we’ve had a couple of folks who have had to replace multiple units (one working theory is that they were over-tightening the mounts).
The Makita is a drop-in replacement for the Carbide Compact Router, using the same collets, nuts, bearings, brushes, motor, and motor housing — just the electronics and top-cap and dial are different, and the cord, ours is much longer. Folks with a nearby Makita dealer, and who have worked out running the cord up to the ceiling have done well with it, except for a few reports of the dial vibrating off a given speed setting (easily solved w/ a bit of tape).
At one point in time, folks were looking at compact trim routers as a consumable, replacing them on a regular basis.
We had a lengthy discussion on the currently available choices at:
Aside from having to open/close drag chains, it’s a pretty easy swap (we’ve had a lot of folks upgrading to our 65mm VFD lately).
I will note that when folks have had a failure during the middle of a project on which they can’t wait for shipping, our suggestion is to grab a Makita locally, and that spares are a good idea — broke a collet on the fancy option I chose and had to wait for shipping from Germany.
I agree with others that the #4 should be fine for you. But if all you’re doing is some slots that are all the same size (or a few different sizes), couldn’t you do that with a trim router and a template or two?
Ya Karl…I have thought about this. The thought is how much time will be required for each? If I have to make 10 of these per month…and having to do it by hand each time…is it worth it? If I need to modify the template…how much time will that take?
The notch I need to make is a bit complicated…It is a through slot…but the top has to be recessed about 2-3mm to allow the screw head to be flush with the shelf surface. I need 8 of these. It would likely need to be a two step process x 8. That is a lot of time…15-20 minutes per shelf…is it worth it? A counterbore bit might work for a single pass if I can find one to handle the thickness of the material.
Maybe you have an idea that I haven’t thought about yet?
The best woodworker I knew (my great aunt’s bridge partner’s husband) had the attic of his barn/shop filled with templates, and had a photographic memory of each, and pretty much any complex task he did either started by getting out the appropriate template(s), or, creating one (or more) new one(s) to add to the collection.
I have a Shaper Origin which fits the bill at a lower overall cost and has some advantages and disadvantages of my 5 Pro. I had the Shaper long before the Shapeoko. Lots of ways to get your project done. If that’s all you really intend to cut are these shelves I would do as suggested and cut templates out and do them by hand. After a few your proficiency would pick up and get the rest cut faster.
Thanks Tim…the Shaper Origin is very cool!! Thanks for sending my way. Though it is quite a bit more than the Shapeoko 4…but offers portability. I will give it some thought.
Since your starting out the first thing I’d do is look for a good used machine. That’s what I did. I bought a Stepcraft D840 with the large spindle, the 3D printer attachment, the laser attachment and the heavy solid aluminum t slot table for $1200. I’ve worked it’s little tail off. It’s completely replaced router template work. I’ve even done big tiled jobs up to 80x22.
Look on Marketplace and on the Facebook pages of the user groups for the various brands.
If and when you outgrow it you can sell it just like the guy you bought it from did. Meanwhile you can decide if the 4x2 Shapeoko 5 Pro will do or if you need to go with the full half sheet machine.
I have the ShapeOKO Pro and I love it. My experience is when you buy a machine and start using it you will always find something a little larger you would like to do. I would go with the ShapeOKO Pro XL. Its a much sturdier machine with linear rails. But if cost is a consideration then get the ShapeOKO 4.
