Shapeoko 4 Standard Assembly Tips

Hey everyone,

I just finished setting up my new Shapeoko 4 Standard and during the process noticed that there were not any assembly guides out there for the standard size, only the XL and XXL. For the most part the guide for the XL size aligns with the standard size, but I did notice a few differences. I wanted to post the differences I noticed while setting up my machine in case it is useful for anybody else who is going through the same process and gets stuck at some point.

As there is no assembly guide for the standard size, I ended up using the recommended guide for the Shapeoko 4 XL. I also made heavy use of this Shapeoko 4 assembly video from Carbide3D. Later on when speaking with the support team they recommended that I use the Shapeoko 4 XXL assembly guide instead, however I was almost finished setting up the machine at that point so I continued using the guide for the XL. After getting the machine fully assembled I used the Shapeoko Machine Setup Guide to get Carbide Motion up and running.

Step 1 – Baseframe

  • 1.1 – Review Box 1 Contents
    • Part β€œA”: All 3 crossmembers have a pre-installed standoff.
    • Parts β€œB” and β€œC”: The support panels look slightly different, mine had a notched cutout about halfway through.
    • Part β€œF”: Not included. But not necessary as standoff is already installed.
  • 1.2 – Position Crossmembers and Dragchain Support Panels
    • While the support panels looked different, the screw holes were all in the correct spots. The notch in the panel goes toward the back of the machine.

Step 2 – Y-Rails

  • 2.1 – Review Box 2 Contents
    • Both of the β€œW” pieces (Y-Axis side skirt) were missing for me. I contacted the support team (support@carbide3d.com) and they shipped me the missing parts at no charge w/ 2-day shipping. They were quick and helpful with making sure I got the missing parts.
  • 2.2-2.3 – Installing the Y-Axis Rails
    • It was a bit tricky getting the shoulder bolts to thread into the standoffs and sit flush on the Y-rails. I kept backing the bolts in and out while slightly moving the rail around until I felt them go in. The picture in the guide showing the bolt sitting flush against the Y-rail was helpful.

Step 3 – Gantry

  • 3.1 – Review Box 3 Contents
    • Part β€œZ” (X-Axis Drag Chain Support Panel) looks a little bit different than in the guide, but it still goes in the same location.
  • 3.3 – Open V-Wheels
    • I used a 3mm Allen (on the wheel side) and 10mm wrench (on the eccentric nut side) to open the eccentric nuts as shown in the video tutorial.
  • 3.4 – Install X-Axis Gantry
    • DO NOT tighten the eccentric nuts yet. It wasn’t super clear in the guide, but this will be done at a later step.

Step 4 – Endplates

  • 4.2-4.4 – Install Endplates
    • A couple of the screws were tough to thread in at first, just be patient and make sure to align without cross-threading.
    • I found it useful to test thread the screws into the Y-Rail before putting the endplate on to figure out angles and smooth out any sharp edges on the threads.
  • 4.5 – Install Y-Axis Limit Trigger and Square Machine

Step 5 – X/Z Assmebly

  • 5.4 – Install X/Z Carrier Plate
    • At this point I tightened both the eccentric nuts on the X/Z carrier and the eccentric nuts on the X-axis gantry. This was shown in the video tutorial but was not super clear in the assembly guide doc.
  • 5.6 – Install X Motor and Belt
    • Instead of the M5x12mm SHCS, my box had a second set of Y-Axis Skirt bolts. I was able to find the required four M5x12mm SHCS in the spare hardware bag.
  • 5.7 to 5.8 Install Drag Chain Brackets
    • Both brackets were combined into a single piece in my kit. It still fit into the same spot(s) as the original 2 brackets, it just appears to be a more sturdy solution.
    • The bag also contained an additional cable clip. Not sure where to put it at this point, I set it aside as spare hardware.
  • 5.9 Install X/Z Assembly
    • The Z-plate was too low and I couldn’t move it any higher (there might be a way to do this, I just did not want to force anything). It blocked the two middle holes for attaching the X/Z Assembly to the X/Z carrier plate.
    • I proceeded with just the two top and two bottom BHCS in place and installed the middle two once the machine was up and running and I could manually move the Z axis upward using Carbide Motion.

Step 6 – Drag Chain

  • 6.2 Install X-Axis Drag Chain
    • The bolts for the cable ties underneath the X-Axis Drag Chain Support Panel extend through the panel and interfere with the X-Axis Drag Chain laying flush with the Support Panel.
    • I 3D printed some small standoffs to go in between the cable tie and the support panel.
    • After installing the standoffs the screw no longer extends through the support panel, allowing the drag chain to sit completely flush against the panel.
    • One could also use some washers to accomplish the same thing.
  • 6.5 Install Y-Axis Drag Chain
    • No 6mm spacer was provided. It does not appear to be strictly necessary. I proceeded without it.
  • 6.6 Secure Y-Axis Drag Chain Tail
    • No 2mm spacer was provided. It does not appear to be strictly necessary. I proceeded without it.

Step 7 – Router

  • 7.1 Review Box 7 Contents
    • I found out after going through all of part 7 that the empty drag chains were the wrong lengths (I think they may be the lengths for an XXL machine).
    • I ended up shortening the one for the X-axis to a length of 41 links and the one for the Y-axis to a length of 22 links.

Step 8 – Hybrid Table

  • 8.2 Install Hybrid Hardware
    • I had to loosen the bolts on the Y-Axis Side Skirts and move the skirts up a bit so the hybrid table could fit underneath.

Step 9 – Controller

  • 9.1 Review Box 9 Contents
    • Was missing both β€œP” and β€œM” screws. I found both in the spare parts bag.

Step 10 – Setup Machine Control Software

  • Instead of following along with step 10 I used the Shapeoko Machine Setup Guide. This guide seemed to be more up to date than the steps outlined in step 10.
  • One hangup I did have during this step was whether or not my machine was Z-Plus or HDZ. I was ultimately able to figure it out by comparing my Z-plate with the image on the HDZ product page. It does show up in the diagram in Carbide Motion, I just didn’t notice the difference between the two at first and found it easier to compare mine with an actual picture of the HDZ.

That’s it. Hopefully this information is helpful to others setting up a Shapeoko 4 Standard size machine. If you notice anything I stated here that is incorrect or you have any other Shapeoko 4 Standard setup tips please let me know! I’m looking forward to cutting some more pieces with my machine now that it’s up and running. Here’s the first test piece I did after completing the set up!

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