What can one expect for accuracy on the Shapeoko 5 Pro, X,Y, Z? I spent the better part of a day try to get the VFD trammed in and surfaced the spoil boards. Best I can get is +/-.002", which I guess is pretty good for a machine nominally designed for wood. My machine is a 2’ x 2’, which only has 3 aluminum bars beneath the bed. I definitely notice some deflection in between thoses bars, again, I am being pretty critical. I plan to cut aluminum and plastic, so I am shooting for the best accuracy I can get. I’d like to hear what others have experienced. Thanks
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+/- 0.002 on the flatness of the table? How are you measuring it? Is the surface twisted? i.e. off in the same direction on opposite corners?
Will has suggested placing the machine on a piece of foam so it can seek it’s own natural flatness.
I added 4 screws in the corners using the mounting holes that the bed was attached to the pallet for shipping, and used those to adjust the flatness of the bed. But my table was machined flat on a bigger CNC before assembly.
I have no way to accurately measure the flatness, but I can lay a precision straight edge diagonally on the surfaced table and it as flat as I can get it.
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What tool are you using?
Please note that a tool should be ten times more precise/accurate than the precision you are trying to measure to.
I am referring to the tram of the spindle across the 4 quadrants and center. My indicator reads to .0005", measuring to .0001" is a bit of overkill for this type of machine. Having 4 aluminum bars under bed would help; I may add 2 to mine for a total of 5ea.
More mass is always good — is there a standard size of extrusion(s) which would work out for this?
Sure, you guys could use a product called 8020 al extrusion in 1 x 1, no need to drill and tap, as it accepts slide in t-nuts, avail in inch or metric. On that note, I wish you guys used SAE hardware. Mcmaster Carr also carries a product that is basically the same as 8020. In the end, it would probably save you guys money, no need for the plastic end caps, which fall off anyway, unless you glue them.
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We used to use a mix of metric and Imperial — it was a pain — while I’m a big proponent of “Freedom Units” — for our usage/supply chain constraints, they’re just not workable, though we do accommodate them insofar as it makes sense when we can.
Are you able to elaborate a bit on the aluminum extrusions and where exactly you are placing them? I think you are talking about adding additional bars under the t-tracks? In this video it shows 4 aluminum bars going between the side frames, would you be drilling additional mounting holes in the black side frames and adding the 8020 there?
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On the 2x2 there are only 3 bars, not good. Yes, they would go under the tracks. I already programmed the machine to drill and recess 12 additional screws in the waste boards to prevent bowing midway between the CB3d factory fasteners. That helped some. BTW my table is very flat where machine rests, welded steel frame with box tubing then 3/4 melamine sheet leveled on top of that, held with silicone to prevent distortion from fasteners.
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Thank you, I have a 4x4 and would love to reinforce it a bit. I have 4 bars going across under there so I will measure those and see if I could add another 1 or 2. Is the McMaster product you mention the aluminum extrusions they sell?
Yes, the Mcmaster extrusion is basically the same as the 8020 product. You could also just use 1x1 AL bar and drill and tap it or Even just a dab of silicone in a few spots would be fine, you just want support.
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