Hey Guys… any suggestions on what could be wrong here? I have had great success with cutting straight lines and now on my last few cuts it has not been as accurate. Pictures attached. Should I not have used a V bit on the top portion? I am mostly referring to bottom right section of the A as it would curve. The section of the left cut perfectly, however. Any suggestions on trouble shooting? THanks!!
The cut seems to have followed the CAM preview.
What is the problem you are seeing exactly?
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The issue I am seeing is the bottom hook (right of the A) is not cutting properly. When it was running it curved out of place and did cut the correct both.
That’s a mechanical problem. Please check the machine mechanically:
- Pulley set screws: http://docs.carbide3d.com/shapeoko-faq/shapeoko-3-how-to-check-the-pulley-set-screws/ — be sure to check all axes/pulleys including Z.
- V wheels / eccentric nuts: http://docs.carbide3d.com/support/tensioning-eccentrics
- Z-axis:
- Belt drive: Belt tension — the Z-axis should be guitar string tight (but careful not to bend the motor shaft): http://docs.carbide3d.com/assembly/shapeoko/xxl/step-5-belting/ on deep cuts it may help to remove one spring from the Z-axis temporarily (which side doesn’t matter), esp. if one hasn’t added a spoilboard on top of the wasteboard — it also helps to install the router as low as possible (installing the Makita adapter upside down will help). Some folks have found it helps to remove bolts which won’t stay tensioned (M4 Z-axis tension bolt, various V wheels with eccentric nuts), apply a thin bead of threadlock along the length of the threads, then reinstalling. See the video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lIIb_PdziA Note that the X-axis motor is held in place on standoffs and if those bolts are loose this can cause belt tension issues.
- HDZ — make certain that it can move for its entire extent (the coupler provides a good point to turn it) when the power is off, check that dust caps are all in place and not interfering with movement
- Z-Plus — verify that it can move from top–bottom
It is also important to be sure that the collet is correctly tightened, the endmill fits correctly and doesn’t slip, and the router is mounted securely in the mount, and that the mount doesn’t shift. Note than endmill pullout can happen gradually, especially when profiling against tall walls.[4]
Also feeds and speeds may be a consideration: https://docs.carbide3d.com/support/#tooling-support and see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9bceJxpqG0 for concepts on this and https://www.precisebits.com/tutorials/calibrating_feeds_n_speeds.htm for a testing technique and see the series #MaterialMonday: #MaterialMonday on YouTube
Beyond that it’s usually a matter of ​calibration and squaring the machine c.f., https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9E3VEYlfwA and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4VverLXpCI and http://docs.carbide3d.com/shapeoko-faq/how-to-calibrate-the-machine-for-belt-stretch/
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I recommend that you try cutting it about 0.060 to 0.100 shallower. Meaning I think it might be just too deep…Because as @briankb says…it IS following the CAM.
PS I’ve had this exact problem…and it WAS the depth…
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