Wow that is really impressive. Where are you sourcing your aluminum from?
I order most of my metal from a local place called Pal Steel, 1.5" thick x 6" x 6 foot long sections cost about $170
I would like to try thread milling but am struggling to understand which bit is needed. My goal is M6 threads, but the bits are not listed by thread type: so does one get a .1", .18", etc. I assume metric and imperial threads have the same profile.
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I do a lot of thread milling (ID/OD). Those are way too expensive…but it’s your money. You need to know cutter diameter (so it can fit into the minor diameter of your thread), and the TPI info (e.g. 32 to 64 Threads per Inch,) and the length of the undercut (so that it can cut the length of threads) Clearer?
What material do you plan on cutting? Because you need to be aware of the SFM limits of the cutter.
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Where would you suggest buying them? A couple inexpensive ones would be fantastic for the first tests and inevitable crash. I was hoping to try 1/4 - 3/8 thick 6061 aluminum, which is a pain to tap manually. Might also try clear cast acrylic to see if the threads have a nicer surface finish than manually tapping.
Would like to do M6-1.0 threads, with a minor diameter ~5mm. So that .18 would fit nicely @4.6mm.
I saw a review on this one that mentioned some cutting parameters for successful threads in 6061 aluminum, however the RPM they used was 4500 instead of the CC router 18000 RPM.
“I tried this for some M6 threads in 6061 aluminum, using the 2D → Thread option in Fusion 360. Spin at 4500 rpm, feed at 320 mm/min, two step-overs with 0.15 mm step, 1mm thread pitch, 1mm thread diameter offset. Important: Choose “lead to center” in the linking options!”
So in theory I could replicate that SFM at 18000 rpm with around 4x the feed rate: 1280 mm/minute (~50 in/minute).
Would really appreciate a link to more economic thread mills. Saw some on Aliexpress for ~$14 but that takes well over a month to arrive.
Well, for a desktop machine…carbide is carbide…Made in China or Made in Germany…same stuff for us…but a poor grinding (sharpening) job is more likely from China…but China also makes some awesome cutters too.
Now to practice…would you be interested in making your own cutter? A search here will reveal a REALLY EASY way to make (my name and thread milling search terms) using a 1/4-20 four-flute tap. Own a grinder? (Or a Dremel)…that all you need. It’s also the perfect size for a M6 thread. (All you need to do is remove (grind) all the teeth of the tap off except ONE tooth. I say to use a four-flute because it gives you at least tries at this easy DIY cutter.
FYI: A 1/4-tap fits into a 1/4" collet
If I can’t convince you to make your own, that fine one on eBay/Amazon for $35 ish
PS: I made a thread mill a few weeks ago out of an old (dull) 3/8- two-flute end mill. Worked AWESOME. They don’t need to be pretty to work.
(I’ll try to find some links)…while you ponder…
Link 1:
Link 2: Same as above, just scroll down to see the 2 YEARS LATER Stuff (which is from earlier this year)
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Nice looking professional job. I had been using a Shapeoko 3 till recently. I’m waiting on my Pro XL to come in next month.
What system/program do you use for speeds and speeds for the Pro?
I used to struggle adjusting my settings with programs that were largely designed for more rigid production shop machines.
That looks great!
I design everything in F360 but not ready to jump for tool paths.
That is on my list but until I get my groove back I’m sticking with VCarve Pro.
Can you share how you set up F360 so I can dig in and start getting a better handle on how a SOPro and F360 play together?
I used my Revopoint POP, worked great to get the exact contour of the side of the car so the oil cap matches perfectly
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Fusion is the only way to do CAM IMHO for aluminum, it does such a great job with adaptive paths and you can also slow down the speeds when it gets to a complex area. I was using meshcam which was great, but the control in fusion is amazing
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I might dive in this weekend and learn F360’s cam system. I’t looks to be the best choice, and i’m already designing everything in there.
Can you point to any tutorials that helped you (there are a ton on YouTube but I’m asking here)?
I’d like to clear the clutter and get working rather than watching countless worthless videos and crash.
I found Autodesks CAM pretty intuitive. Like F360 design, there is a variety of paths available to the same result. I recommend simply playing with it. Create a setup for your part, then throw some tool paths at it. You can simulate the program and identify the effects of various changes and what not. When you hit a wall on something, give your question a search on YouTube. I think you’ll ultimately find the Autodesk CAM easier to use than anything else, though not necessarily faster.
I think you’re right. My VCarve Pro 8.5 doesn’t have nearly the capability F360 has. The adaptive milling is what I’ve wanted for awhile but Vectric hasn’t added that in (as far as I know).
The way F30 handles multi-sided jobs are calling out to me.
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I’ve found NYC CNC stuff helped me a lot and as said above playing with the paths and testing,
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@Brasch How do you like the Revopoint POP? I have been looking at a few different scanners and the Revopoint is on my radar, I just have only found two real reviews of it, of those two only one was a “good” review. Do you use the turntable at all with it? My primary usage for it would be scanning pistols to expedite mold design for when we develop new Kydex holsters.
Here is my POV. There are some great scanners out there in the high $$$$ range for professional use. They require skill, knowledge and patience to use (watch some videos on scanning cars it takes hours) The skills needed to take advantage of a 3D scanner are many and most of the people using the POP are doing so for fun and want it easy and simple to use to get amazing results, which is possible with the POP but you need to know more to make it amazing for you.
1: do you understand the concept of a point cloud and how much detail you need to capture to get the level of detail you want
2: understand mesh editing tools and concepts. No scan will be perfect, but can you use the tools to clean up or combine the aspects of the scan you need to make it work (mesh lab, mesh mixer, etc)
3: do you know how to verify and convert the scan to an accurate size mesh to use to make parts. I’ve found on body scanning 10% of the scan size gets me close. For large parts like genders, etc I have not done many small parts
4: you need to know a tool like Fusiom 360 so you can use the scan as a base to then create parts from. Areas like sketch from mesh, solid modeling and the likes will be your friend
So the long answer is, it’s a great tool if you have patience and are willing to know it’s not a plug in, scan and it’s perfect solution. I’ve used many high end scanners and I’d love one for my business. But this is the one I recommend now to all small shops because it’s a great scanner (with patience) and can get us to prototypes quickly that are great. For the price it’s amazing
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@Brasch I have a FARO arm at my day job that I have used some, unfortunately we have company policies that prevent me from just being able to use it for the projects that have me looking for a personal scanner. There will very likely be some sort of learning curve with one (as there is any time you get a new piece of equipment) so that doesn’t concern me too much, my primary concern is the resolution of the scan & whether the materials I intend to scan will work with this style of scanner. From my understanding darker materials have issues being picked up by IR scanners due to the nature of IR light.
One of the two videos I was able to find stated that this scanner struggled with browns and blacks, which is my main cause for concern as the parts I intend to scan will all be primarily black or dark grey.