It looks good to me!
I do have openings on the sides on mine and they came in handy a few times, so worth considering
@Julien
Here I did add some plexiglass so that at worst case if I can not reach what needs to be changed/fixed. I could unscrew the plexi from inside to take it out which would give me full access to the sides.
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Consider adding a recess and some weather strip in between the plexiglass and the wood. It really helps cut the sound down. I used brass threaded inserts and large head stainless steel hurricane 1/4-20 bolts to secure the polycarbonate window on my So3 enclosure from the outside. An overlap on one door will help as well. You can use cap screws with washers as well. I bought a bunch of these bolts on clearance a few years ago so I had plenty on hand and I love the way they look but they are long and need trimming.
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Also, plan ahead for where your dust collection hose will go (a common scheme is to have a shopvac hidden inside the bottom of the enclosure, and then you will need a hole for the hose to go through to the top compartment)
Looks like you have a solid plan now.
For reference, here is my enclosure design with Julien’s recommended dimensions, sporting a HDM placeholder.
One consideration is the height of your garage door opening. My cabinet is within .500" of the opening on casters.
The “floor” should be a torsion box (4 ft. x 5 ft.) and the whole cabinet should be built around it in a top section and a bottom section.
The top section should be completely removable.
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On mine the floor and machine platform are semi-torsion boxes. I say semi because they don’t have bottoms.
@CrookedWoodTex
And why is that!? If the front and back open why would the entire top need to be removable?
@DiscoJon yes I have the same style floor but mine goes along the Y Axis as I feel it’d give more stability being the shorter piece.
I went along x axis since the vertical partition in the lower half was load bearing.
If you don’t have the bottom, you don’t have a torsion box. The strength and stability of the torsion box comes from the shearing strength of the two sets of glue joints separated by the height of the box.
- Working on the machine
- Tiling a long job
- New and different model machine
- Re-location of machine
- Dust collection change / not working
- ???
@CrookedWoodTex
The top may not be completely removable but everything you stated other then a different sized machine has been accounted for. The back swing down for tiling, side plexi will be removable to work on the rails if need be
Hence why I termed it semi-torsion.
Hence, why I suggested it wasn’t “torsion” anything as is applied to a platform in case others reading that misinterpret your “semi”. 
Let the pedants be pedants I suppose.
I do agree that without some support under the machine platform you would need a full torsion box. You can get around this with a load bearing divider like I implemented. You should be fine since you will have to have something there to mount the drawer slides.
Also I’d be happy share my 3d printable lift off hinges are f you’re interested.
@DiscoJon - Yes after seeing your divider that is true it gives support across the center I might switch to that but…
@CrookedWoodTex - I have never built a torsion box, can they be off centered and not straight in line like a checkered box to where I can still Brad nail straight on and get the same support?
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