Is it best practice to hard power off the SO5 controller when not in use?
I’ve been using the power pendant (red stop) for my “power off”, but I hear the fans intermittently running. Don’t mind the fan noise or modicum of energy consumption.
If C3D recommends a hard switch power off, then I would love to hear ideas on remote power control since I don’t feel like bending under table to shut things…
My inner engineer is thinking a relay tied to the pendant stop to also physically cut power to SO5 controller. Thoughts?
I would power it down completely. When building electronics there is a Mean Time Between Failures {MTBF) rating on all the electronic components on an assembly. I am not privy to the MTBF of the electronics on the SO5 controller but anytime you can power it off you extend the life an electronics. Plus it is an energy savings thing. We have a lot of vampire things around out house that is drawing power even when we are not using them. Likely you have phone chargers plugged in when not charging your phone and all the little led lights indicating power on objects all over your house. Each little vampire is not drawing much power but add them all together and it is more than you think.
I have my S5P, spindle, and computer on a power conditioning power strip. I hit the E-Stop, shut down the computer, then turn off the strip. That way everything is dead and I don’t have to walk around to the back of the other side to turn off the VFD.
I have GfI outlets in my garage. can I just change one out to regular outlet? and what is a good power Strip? I am finishing Table this week after work so I can begin to put it together Sat. was not sure on GfI.
Disclaimer: Consult an electrician, as local code may dictate what you can or cannot do. My ramblings should not be constituted as advice or guidance. It’s my own personal experience…
GFCI’s are placed in garages to reduce risk of shock, as garages are likely to be exposed to the elements (water). Sometimes, the inside GFCI outlet may also provide power to outside outlets - which really should have GFCI in any condition.
If you press “TEST” on your GFCI, you can determine what outlets are connected downstream of that outlet. Check your outlets with a device / test instrument of your choice. Check outside as well. Once you determine what outlets are coupled to the GFCI, you can make the safety determination (in consultation with your electrician) if it can safely be replaced with a regular outlet.
In any event, it’s generally a low effort (cost) exercise to add a 2nd outlet which bypasses the GFCI (e.g. changing to a double gang box and having both GFCI and non-GFCI). Again, that’s based on electrical code in your jurisdiction. Some jurisdictions require GFCI in certain residential areas. Google Oracle is your friend here…
All my outlets in shop are GFCI except one. My Jet 1221vs lathe trips GFCI outlets when I change speeds. So I ran a single outlet on its own breaker that is not GFCI.
There are two types of GFCI circuits. The first is the whole branch circuit is protected by GFCI breaker. The second has a regular breaker but the first outlet is a GFCI that line is attached to and other outlets on branch are load and are protected by first outlet.
Unless you have a potential of water in the circuit ordinarily a GFCI is useless. Run your stuff, if there is an issue regarding voltage you can deal with it then. This should not be an issue if you are not having a problem.
I have no idea how your system is laid out. If your shop is run from your bathroom then as I said above. There are two types. GFCI breakers and the first outlet is GFCI. Determine that and go from there.
If you have the breaker GFCI removing that and replacing with a regular one would eliminate the GFCI but would also be against most electrical code. Plus you are defeating the purpose of a GFCI to protect you from potential shock. Lets say your washing machine shorted the hot to the case of the washer. The washer usually sits on rubber feet. So if you walk up to it and touch the case you become ground and get shocked. With a GFCI the electricity would have been cut off long before you touched the case of the energized case. GFCI is required in places where water is likely and/or possible. A garage, your outside outlets, bathrooms, kitchens. If your first outlet is a GFCI you can figure the topology if your branch circuit and move the GFCI down the line but again you are defeating the purpose of having a GFCI in the first place in a place where there is potential moisture/water.
You could run a new circuit from the breaker box to a new outlet with a regular breaker and regular 15/20 AMP outlet. I do not think a qualified electrician would do that for you because it is against code. If your electrician would do that I would not trust them to run a circuit that is not in code.
What is the problem with a GFIC?
Edit: When I had my aerobic septic installed I asked the contractor what amperage and type of circuit they wanted. The contractor wanted a 20 Amp Non GFCI circuit. I installed what they wanted but after they left I put a GFCI where the wire came out of the building and put an electrical out in a water proof box. That protects the septic system because it is a pump and floats immersed in water.
There are a lot of myths about GFCI most of which are not true. Modern houses often have an outlet in the garage that is GFCI. In my house in Kingwood that outlet was part of the circuit for the front and back porch outlets and lights. My neighbor had the same outlet and put Christmas lights up every year. The extension cords would get wet when it rained and would trip the GFCI in the garage. She wanted me to replace it because the old one had gone bad. I told her it was doing exactly what it was designed to do. When the cords got flooded it would trip the GFCI and not shock her as she walked up the sidewalk in front of her house. The electrical code is in place to protect you from shock. The newest code required Arc Suppressor in living spaces. I installed my own electrical system and got the combination GFCI/Arc Suppressor breakers for all interior living spaces and GFCI for the whole shop and all outdoor electrical outlets and lights.
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