Your example has straight sides on both the pocket and inlay.
I am under the impression that an angled bit is used on both the pocket and inlay to achieve a “wedge” fit. The software has to make calculations so that the inlay is the correct size midway up the side to fit the top of the pocket and (if done correctly) does not bottom out.
I believe you can get more detail & strength with a smaller angle on the bit. I’m trying to use a 30deg vee/engraver cut.
Oh, you are so right, sorry about that. Here’s a new image that better illustrates the math I use. The key for me was creating an ample glue gap at the bottom so my plug didn’t bottom out before the top seated well.
Your logic & math are correct.
Note: you will have 2 conditions if using a Max Depth. Areas where the clearing bit or V-bit reaches the full max depth & uses a clearing pattern to cut to max depth, and areas where the V-bit can’t reach max depth where the distance between the vectors is narrower. In those areas there will be no glue gap. You will need to remove a small amount of material from the male/plug side to create a glue gap
Good point. Is carbide create sophisticated enough to compensate for that?
No, it’s not. That’s why I pointed it out. I just use sandpaper to brush off the sharp peaks on the plug side.
Now that I think of it, another thing to consider is over-cutting, whether it be slop in the machine, runout on the cutter, backlash, or material compression when clamping, it seems the plug almost always inserts into the pocket a little bit further than designed. I always start out with a smaller plug depth & greater top gap than I’m shooting for, measure the actuals after cutting, then adjust accordingly.
Excellent advice, that’s where I ended up after trial and error, shorter plug length, more glue gap, more top gap as far as Carbide Create is concerned. Finally unslopped my machine and got enough ‘gaps’ programmed in to gain success. Sure appreciate the comment and insight. Here’s to better inlays, easier. 
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