Hello, i wonder if anyone has any advice on what to use to machine small pockets for inlays.
I will be looking to fill these with epoxy resin hopefully, trying to get the sharp corners detail in
small inlays.c2d (44 KB)
For sharp corners, you’ll need some kind of v-bit. While I have used a few different ones, this Amana engraving set has been great. Once you get past the eye-watering price, it’s quite nice. The v-tips will get the corners and give you a super crisp chamfer. And you can use the core box for the bottom of the pockets. Or switch out to a bigger tool if the pocket is larger and you’d like to be done before Christmas.
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For a single 30 degree V tool see:
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That #45771-K 30-degree engraver is great. Leaves a good finish and is relatively inexpensive to replace.
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Another one to consider. I’ve had good results with these.
Thankyou everyone, this has certainly given me a few options to look through
I use a 30 & 60 v bit. Overfill the pockets with resin. then surface .002 or .003 below top with McFly cutter… Results are real good
can i ask, in carbide create would i toolpath this a v-groove with pockets cut out or set a toolpath for engraving?
small inlays.c2d (44 KB)
Cutting pockets with a round bit has round corners. Using a vee bit alone will take forever and leaves a rough flat area. So the advanced vcarve was developed.
C3D came out with the advanced vcarve tool path a few years ago. You use a flat end mill to cut the pockets and then a vee bit to go around the outside to form the V shape. You pick the vcarve tool path and at the top of the dialog box you check “Enable Pocket Tool” and most people cut the pockets first so the vee bit does not have much of a load for cutting.
When using epoxy in shallow pockets I use tabletop epoxy. The tabletop epoxy has a limit of about .25" depth to cure properly. I can pour the epoxy after dinner and by noon the next day I can machine off the excess. I have used MAS Tabletop Epoxy with good results.
If you have really deep pockets then you have to use slow set epoxy. Slow set is just as advertised and takes days or even a week to set and fully cure. On slow set epoxy that you use colorants the colors are heavier than the epoxy and your color will tend to settle at the bottom. So you have to closely monitor your pour so when the epoxy has a jello like consistently you need to stir the epoxy to get the color back to the top. Mica Powders and other power form colorants tend to sink. Liquid pigments tend to stay suspended in the epoxy well. For table top epoxy it sets quickly enough and is shallow enough that the colorant sinking is not usually an issue. On deep pour it is a concern to watch out for.
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Thankyou, i had a bit of an issue when setting a toolpath for the file above it tends to stagger the centre in the 3d simulation, would this be down to the v bit do you think?
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