And, yet another endmill storage solution. Now my el-cheapo, no box end mills can enjoy pride of place alongside their pricey brethren. Plus all stored in the same format and labeled, eventually.
And that’s it for today’s episode of making useful stuff from scraps.
Oh, the inserts were cut using F360 bore and adaptive clear. Bore at 24k, 2500 mm/min, 0.5 mm pitch. Adaptive clear 24k, 2500mm/min first half, 1250 second half, 0.25 op load, 13 mm doc, no stock to leave. 3 flute flat end mill. No finishing steps ‘cause I figured they’d go flying. One stroke on 120 grit each side, fit perfect.
Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
3
Indeed! Cleaning up the shop now before I get back to the guitar build. I’ll have to relearn everything, sigh.
The bathroom was worth the effort, earned my first cabinet saw!
I bet it purrs like a kitten with that sweet little “whirr” noise letting you know your dust collection is pulling nicely!
Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
5
Dust collection on this thing is pretty amazing. Plus when I connect the shop vac to the dust collection blade guard - the claim is 99% and I believe it. I did see a bit when I cut some 8/4 white oak. 1/4” to 3/4” ply is dust free. Will be cutting some Ipe in a few weeks, give that 3hp motor a test.
I’m surprised I’ve left the blade guard/riving knife on, past experience they were more trouble then they were worth. Nice thing is, 30 second, tool-less removal.
SawStop has done a really fine job, well worth the extra cost.
I have a Powermatic 66 I have had for about 15 years. The powermatic is a beast and I love it. But if somehow it disappeared I would get the SawStop Pro Cabinet Saw. I value my fingers and need all of them. I am careful but the reason you call it an accident is because you do not mean to have them. When things go wrong it happens so fast you cannot react. As long as I have used tablesaws (over 40 years) I have a healthy respect for them, plan a cut and most importantly consider what will happen if something goes wrong and what I will do. If I start a cut and have a bad feeling I stop and rethink what I am doing and try to figure a way to hold the work so my hand is far away from the blade.
3 Likes
Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
7
Healthy respect is the key. I’ve been using table saws since I was 11 so, um, 60 years (crap, I’m old!). I’m late to the party for quality equipment, better late then never though.
My wife is finally convinced I may have a modicum of talent and has asked if I would tackle a new bedroom set. Should be interesting given the SO3 and other tools.
Guitar first though.
8 Likes
Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
8
It was between the current gen Powermatic and the Saw Stop. The internal, retractable wheels are a neat feature. Safety won out.
I recently cleaned house on my enormous scrap pile and stated work on a chaos cutting board…looking like I might have enough for 2 boards with 11 glue ups. It was a fun challenge to fit all the scraps of various sizes into different panels.
I really like the use of the wood bit holder inserts so your slots can either be plastic package or plain bit not dedicated to some size of shank.
1 Like
Griff
(Well crap, my hypometric precursor device is blown…)
12
Thanks, I should be able to go all the way to 1/2”. Will be cutting some of those tomorrow.
They could be printed too but that would defeat my purpose to use up my scrap pile. Also, slow. I can cut 16 out of a 1 1/4 x 1 x 5” scrap now with a single adaptive clear toolpath in 40 minutes.
First i defy anyone to look at this and not sing the “Tetris Theme tune” in their heads, as well as imagining the pieces falling down into place
Second - how does this mill - i always worry that it will end up like cheap glued pine boards that split and crack, as well as loosing structural integrity, or does this not led itself to that. (not saying this is anyway cheap looking or quality)
Bonus Question @i3oilermaker when you glue that together, are you doing top and bottom of pieces or all four sides except for the final top and bottom if that makes sense?
@Sherpa As you may know, a clean glue-up is typically stronger than the wood itself. I always dry clamp all glue ups before adding glue to make sure there are no gaps and if there are, I will joint the edge. As long as you only glue edge grain to edge grain there should be no integrity issues. Also, if there is just one weak joint, it is strengthened by the other 3 sides where it is glued to other portions of the board. I’ve seen end grain boards bow or twist (which is why I usually make them at least 1.5in thick) but never seen on split on a glue joint
To answer your other question, I did the glueup in 3 phases - 1 was the sub-glue-up for a panel for the sideways or top bottom parts. Then I would joint that so it fits perfectly with the regular panel. I made 11 panels (lots of odd sized scraps) and then sliced them all to 1.5in to turn upright for an endgrain glue-up.
Nice work. I build end-grain cutting boards too, and use my Shapeoko to flatten them, add a juice groove, and personalization. A juice groove is a real pain with a handheld router but a piece of cake on the CNC…
@i3oilermaker@ScottsdaleSteve
What glue are you guys using? I’m generally a pretty laid-back, go with the flow kind of guy, but big glue-ups stress me out. I need some nice and slow setting glue.
