Swapping end mills when using Carbide Motion?

Today I cut a 3D piece using an STL file. I did a rough cut and a fine cut. I started with a 1/4" square end mill, then moved to a 1/8" ball end mill.

I zero’d the 1/4" square end mill and the rough cut worked fine.

However, when prompted, I then swapped for the 1/8" ball end mill (which is shorter), and there is no option to re-zero the end mill.

As a result, my 3D piece is rough as the 1/8" was not able to do the fine finish as it was not zero’d correctly.

How do I remedy this? Thanks.

Does your machine have a BitSetter? Is it configured and enabled?

If you have a BitSetter on the tool change the z zero is maintained. If you do not have a BitSetter than make 2 tool paths. Run the first tool path and after conclusion shut off the machine. Go back to CC and disable the first tool path. Save. Initialize and set the new bit in with the “Change Tool” and after that set your Z zero again. The X and Y are still set.

You could also just save as and make 2 files. Each file with one tool path each.

I do have one, although not currently using it as it was unreliable (likely new user error). I’ll go back and give it a try. Thanks.

I was not using my Bit Setter due to previous issues (likely user error). I’ll try it again, but the two pass option is a good tip. Thank you.

Not sure what your previous errors were but if you use a BitSetter NEVER change a bit without a software prompt In the file you are prompted to replace a bit. If you just want to change a bit then go through the software interface to change a bit.

When you machine initializes the internal coordinates are remembered by the controller (CM). Then you jog to any location and set zeros (X Y or Z) and an offset is made from the internal coordinates. So on the Z the zero is remembered. So you set X Y and Z and run a file with the first bit and you are prompted for the second bit. You replace the bit and the machines goes to the Bitsetter and plunges twice making a new offset from the internal coordinates that is at the same level as the original Z setting. The new bit may be sticking out ore or less than the first but but that is compensated for on the plunge. The steps down from the Z home position is calculated and when the BitSetter is triggered the calculation is made and the new bit is set to the original Z height.

Just to repeat. NEVER change a bit manually unless you go through the software interface. Never just jog to the front and replace a bit because the syncronization between the home position and the BitSetter position is lost. You would need to reinitialize to get the syncronization back.

Thank you. When I first used BitSetter, I was engraving brass. Every time I ran the job, the spindle would measure the end mill on the BitSetter, but then plunge the end mill into the brass breaking the tip each time. As a result, I moved to the manual / paper method.

I’ll give it another try as it may have been new user error.

Make sure that you have the correct material thickness and zero height spec. I’ve planted bits and ruined pieces because of this. Also, I’ve been running an extra fan on the heat sink of the controller and that has helped tremendously. This may be causing some issues too.

I’m somewhat new to this stuff too.

Thank you. And, also a very flat bed.

This topic was automatically closed 30 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.