Every one works differently. I tried T-track and did not like it. I have had both the aluminum and ones that were cut directly into mdf. The ones I cut with a T-bit are not worth pursing. The mdf is too soft and if you really crank down on a clamp it pulls the mdf out. The aluminum ones hold down by inserting screws into them and if you crank down you can pull them out. The issue with the alum track is they need to be buried below the surface of your spoil board to have room to level and/or clean up your surface with a fly bit. If you bury them then you have very little material to screw into.
For me the threaded spoil board has worked best. I use a 2 inch spacing with T-nuts that are 5/16 inch tall. The 5/16 inch T-nut gives me room to surface my spoil board without worry about hitting the steel t-nuts. Depending on where you are in the world, I am in the USA, so I use 1/4-20. Those that live in other parts of the world tend to use metric t-nuts and spacing. I use the 2 inch spacing to make jigs that I can bolt down to the spoil board for v-carving box tops and other small objects. I also use cam clamps in two sizes so I can clamp down anything I want without a tall clamp sticking up ready for the router to hit it.
This is an exqmple of a holding jig to hold a round object to vcarve on top. There are holes to mount it to the spoil board and a clamp to hold it because it was round.
This is another example of a holding jig to cut some very thin veneer, I used 4 bolts to clamp the jig down over the veneer to cut it for some minimalist wallets.
This is an example of a jig to hold down a 3x5 trinket box to vcarve.
The 2 inch spacing with T-nuts can be very versatile but it depends on what you are making and how you work. For some the T-track works but just not for me.