Table design for Shapeoko 5 pro 4x4

Does anyone have recommendations for table design for a Shapeoko 5 pro 4x4?

I guess I’m looking for tips on things that making it work the best. Things I’m thinking about specifically are:

  1. What height should the table be?
  2. Does the table need to have a solid table top (like a piece of MDF)? Or can it just be a frame with legs?

Any suggestions would be appreciated

  1. Height varies according to one’s own height, and what sort of stock one wishes to use and what sort of stock one is loading and if one will be tiling and needs to match the height of outfeed or other tables. I’m about 5’ 10" and my table is 34.5" high for my SO5 Pro.

  2. A frame with legs would work if one got things lined up so as to support things — that said, a solid top would be better, the flatter and more rigid the better a base it will be for the machine — you can use a sheet of foam under the machine (this will help dampen vibrations and deaden noise).

Some folks have bought the Kreg and/or Rockler metal bases. You still have to make your own top and lower shelves. OpenBuilds has lots of enclosures and/or tables out of extruded alum that bolt together.

Most people simply make their own out of 2x4, 2x6 or 4x4 material.

The most important thing you can do is put heavy duty casters that lock in two directions. This enables you to clean house and do maintenance on your machine. Also if you want to do tiling you can move the machine out and do that. Putting a machine in a corner is not a good idea unless you have casters so it can be pulled out when required.

You are basically building a heavy duty bench. So dont cheap out on material because the SO5 is quite heavy and you need a solid, level base for it to sit on.

The height question comes often. I prefer my machine lower because I have a nice office chair I sit and watch my Shapeoko. Most things I can do from a seated position. Like changing bits and even loading smaller material in my SO3 XXL. I still have to stand up at times but I am old and have stood for most of my life waiting on others and now it is about me and my comfort. As @WillAdams said it also depends on your height. If you are tall a pub sized table might work best or if you are shorter then a dining table height might work better. I can tell you that you need a good chair to sit in because there is a lot of watching paint dry time when machining. So get your self a comfortable chair that is adjustable.

You will also need a place to put a computer. Most people use laptops so a simple folding table will work. If you are going to dedicate a desktop computer to your shop then some protection from dust is necessary but it must still be ventilated. The Intel chips are blast torches and produce mega heat. So when I had a dedicated shop computer I bought a usb powered fan to keep the air circulating around my Dell Small Form Factor computer.

So sit down and make a list of your requirements for the table and then price the material. If you make it you can get 2 by material locally or check out the manufactured ones and decide what your skill level and the ascetics you want in your shop. Some people want a show place and others just get whatever junk is laying around to furnish their shop.

All successful woodworking requires forethought and planing. If you just build things on the fly it might turn out alright but likely not. So make a plan and execute it with reasonable exceptions and a reasonable time table to build it. Make a budget and stick to it as close as possible. So a well thought out plan and then execution will have a successful outcome. Slapping something together on the fly will likely not turn out too good but sometimes that works.


I built mine using the largest Rockler Rock-Steady bench kit. I used Lowes glue-up panels for the top, bottom shelf, and 3 sides for the sides of the bottom. The top is two 30" wide panels reinforced with some Superstrut underneath to help reinforce the top. The top is 60" deep, and 62" wide…what I consider the bare minimum. I added the sides to reduce racking of the frame and have a place to mount electronics/etc. I also highly recommend double locking casters. I have them and it still wobbles a little when I have my S5P running with fervor.

Were I to make another, I would buy legitimate butcher block style counter top material. I picked thru the project panels to get the best ones and it still wasn’t flat. I had to do a lot of belt sanding to get it close.

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I got the Kreg 64x44 workbench, 3/4" plywood top, two 2x4 braces to support the top for my SO5 4x2 (Much like the Carbide 3D Shapeoko 5 Pro You Tube video).
I’m not a cnc router expert, but I don’t believe this setup is the way to go.
When the machine makes direction changes, both the machine and workbench shake. That can’t be a good thing. I made sure all the hardware is tight.
Disappointed in the Kreg workbench and that this setup was recommended by Carbide 3D.

Hand built 64x 64 Table with 4 locking casters on the outside. built at my height as to not do much bending. The machine sometimes shakes the table as all four casters are locked, so far doesn’t seem to effect the outcome of projects. If the piece is secured to said Bed machine, and said machine move with said build table with secured corner blocks etc. =all should move as one unit without defect? so far haven’t had issues. perhaps others have.


I literally built one yesterday for my Pro 5 4x4. I think total materials was $305 from Home Depot.

Shopping list was:
15 x 2x4s
3 sheets of 3/4 Radiata Pine plywood (I use this for a lot of signs so I figured whatever I had left over I could use for making stuff)
About 1.5# of Deckmate screws
4" locking casters (250# capacity).

Total height is 37.5" because that is how high my other bench is which is based off the outfeed of my tablesaw. I figured that if I built this movable bench that I could use the tablesaw as either an infeed or outfeet for the cnc machine that would work out better. Total dimensions are 60x60. I do have the back frame rail of the machine about 1" from the end (the motors overhang) so I could have a little bit of space in the front to park tools and endmills when I’m swapping.

I mounted the controller and power pendant on the outside on the right so I wouldn’t accidentally hit the big red button when sliding past the machine.


Nice! I picked up a similar arm mount based on discussion/recommendation here, but got the laptop version which I’m using for a tablet/keyboard and storage of a pendant.

@WillAdams - you just gave me an idea!

I bet I could print a collar that I could use to mount the pendant on that arm.

It is very convenient having the pendant handy at the machine — I need to do some sort of collar to both secure the power supply for my tablet, and to hold up the ring so things are just a bit higher.

nice, Homemade is always better and makes for better experience overall

I do not have the five Pro, I have a Shapeoko pro. I am currently using it on a 4‘ x 6‘ table that I also have my laser mounted to. It has locking casters but still seems to move quite a bit. I am looking to build a new table, dedicated to my Shapeoko, but I am going to use swing up casters. This allows the table to sit on the floor with the legs. I’m including a picture of just one that is available on Amazon. I don’t know if anybody has tried this style before, but it seems like it would work well. If anybody has these and they do not work, please let me know. Thank you.

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Use those for my planner table. LOVE them

Thanks for the info! I will be putting them on my next table.

I have the Rockler version with removable plates so you can move the wheels from one tool to another. The only thing is that you have to hold the table good as you disengage the wheels as it isn’t really a smooth action. It can be a little abrupt. The ones from Amazon may be better in that respect.

Still, I have them on three tools in my shop.


I also use that style of casters. Works great. Just make sure you get some that are rated for the weight you need. Also if you have other heavy machines in your shop that might need moved or just want the space around the CNC table look at the removable ones @CullenS posted. Very handy.

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Thank you for the design idea.
I just built your table sized 60w x 48d x 24h.
The inset sides allow the clamping of a monitor arm to the top.
I added a 48w x 40d drawer below the front 2 x 4.
I made the drawer front flush with the legs to keep dust out of the drawer.
I also used leveling feet and a foot-activated caster mechanism.
I put the lifts on the inside of the legs to keep them out of the way.

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I have used those Rockler lifting wheels before. They work well but they stick out quite a ways and you can really get your foot wacked by going by and hit the lever. It is a good concept but watch out where you mount them because they always seem to be in the way.

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That’s one reason I mentioned the removeable plates from Rockler up above. If you don’t need to move the table frequently then you can easily remove the wheels.


I mount them on the side so they are out of the way.